Safari on foot

EBRU ERKE

Tanzania has huge safari areas, providing different experiences in places like Serengeti National Park, Ngorongoro Crater and Lake Manyara. My first safari was in Lake Manyara and my second was in Serengeti National Park.

I am not referring to observing wild nature; I am talking about experiencing it firsthand and feeling the adrenaline rush it brings. I joined a daytime walking safari, where animals see you as a threat rather than passive observers in 4x4 jeeps. I also had dinner in the pitch-black night, once again in this unprotected environment.

Do not think I am crazy or ask why I would want such a thrill out of nowhere. Even though I am not usually the daring type, I could not pass up a walking safari — how often do you get that chance in your life? On my third safari trip, I was in Tanzania, a country I really love. Tanzania has huge safari areas, and you can have different experiences in places like Serengeti National Park, Ngorongoro Crater, and Lake Manyara. My first safari was in Lake Manyara, and my second was in Serengeti National Park. Having done those in large 4x4 jeeps and not needing professional photo shoots, the walking safari perfectly satisfied my desire for a new kind of excitement.

Going on a safari is a unique travel experience. Some people go on safari only once and feel that is enough, while others go every year. For those who go on multiple safari trips, they can diversify their experience by choosing different locations and hotels each time. The most important thing about this kind of trip is safety. Staying in tent accommodations can be a bit scary for me. Even though Maasai people work as guards at all the camps, you are still in the wild. For the second time, I stayed at the Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti, where I felt very comfortable and loved the professional team. It is also important to me that I can experience the culture and aesthetics of the place I am visiting.

What would be the ultimate “wow” factor in the middle of the vast savanna? Imagine watching a parade of animals while sitting on your balcony or swimming in the pool. Yes, the hotel has a small artificial pond right in front of it, attracting the animals you have been chasing all day to visit in the morning and afternoon. This pond is on the daily route of elephant herds, including adorable baby elephants, so you might end up taking some of the best, most “like”-worthy photos in Serengeti!

If you stay in Serengeti National Park, you first have to go to Kilimanjaro or Arusha and then take a small 12-seater plane to the Seronera Airstrip (not called an airport since it is a dirt runway). You can also drive from Arusha, but the dirt roads make it a tiring journey. When you land, a hotel driver helps with your luggage and offers drinks and snacks on a tiny table before you head off. Just as I was about to feed a cookie to the small blue-necked “superb starling” birds that gathered around, our driver politely warned, “Please do not feed them. If they get used to it, they will be a real hassle to deal with.”

The one-and-half-hour drive from the airstrip to the hotel is like a road safari. By the way, you pay a $70 tax per person for each day in the national park, plus an extra fee for safaris from the hotel. So, this road safari is kind of a bonus. We saw giraffes, elephants, zebras, rhinos and hippos — everything except lions. The next day, thanks to our guide’s expert tracking skills, we found one and got really close!

It is easy to do that in a jeep, of course. But when went on a walking safari, we realized that we cannot get so close. We were accompanied by our guide and two armed guards. They firmly warned us not to speak loudly, make sudden movements, or run if we got startled. In the wild, we are not the same harmless beings as we are in a jeep; we can be seen as a threat. So, the animals react differently. For instance, giraffes that stayed calm when we drove up to them would run off if we were 300 meters away on foot. And those cute impalas? An entire herd would freeze and stare at you for minutes.

On this walk, you get plenty of time to appreciate the smaller details of nature that you often miss. Different bird species, an elegant flower, a caterpillar you have never seen before... These walks help you better understand how the delicate ecosystem works and how all creatures, big and small, fit into it. Our Maasai guide could tell which animal had passed by from the type and freshness of the droppings, and he also told us interesting stuff about animal bones and other facts about the surroundings. Then it was time for the “Bush dinner,” a meal right in the middle of the savanna. Sitting at a small table next to a fire set up by the hotel team, we waited for our food while keeping an eye on the guards stationed around us. Even though they are all very professional and careful, it is hard to eat without thinking about the possibility of a leopard jumping out of a tree, even though it has never happened before.

Would I go on this safari again and have another meal like this? Absolutely. Because just like you cannot sum up Africa in a word or sentence, the same goes for your experiences and feelings here. Even though Africa is so different from what we are used to, it draws you in with a sense of belonging. I am not sure if it is a return to your roots or an African allure. But as someone who has traveled the world, I can say that Africa always has new stories to tell and something that nourishes your soul in a special way.

Answers to the three burning questions you have about walking safari

1. Do I need to be really fit for a walking safari, or can people who are not in great shape join in as well?

You do not need to be super fit for a walking safari. Your guide can tweak the route and length of your walking safari according to your preferences and your fitness level. Walking safaris are usually slow-paced. You will be stopping regularly when you or your guide notice animal tracks or bones or something interesting.

2. Will I run into dangerous animals?

Sometimes yes! While your guide will avoid routes that take you into dangerous wildlife, nature is unpredictable. Sometimes you may come across a herd of elephants or a pride of lions. People on foot are an unusual sight for animals in the wild. Their instinct for this strange creature tends to lead them to move away or ignore you if they do not feel any threat. You can observe them quietly for a bit and then carry on with your walk. And if there is any hint of danger, a warning shot from your armed guard will do the trick.

3. What should I take with me on a safari?

Even if you are going out early in the morning, slap on some strong sunscreen, throw on a hat, toss a water bottle in your bag, and do not forget your binoculars.

Some useful tips

• Go for earthy or dark green colors to blend in with the nature. Avoid bright hues and white clothing. Flies are particularly attracted to blue and black colors.
• Opt for closed, comfy shoes and wear long socks, even tucking your pants into them for added comfort.
• Consider getting a Maasai stick; they are great for clearing bushes.
• Understand that this walking safari will be quite different from a jeep safari but will be quieter and more thrilling.
• Do not stress about toilets; nature is the most hygienic option in Africa. Bring wet wipes and tissues for convenience.