AYLİN ÖNEY TAN

Wine and Viticulture from Ottoman times to Turkish Republic AYLİN ÖNEY TAN

Wine and Viticulture from Ottoman times to Turkish Republic

Three Turkish ladies talking about vineyards in Türkiye in front of an audience of academics in France, and what they talk about is totally new to the audience. This happened earlier this month in Tours, however, it was not a wine connoisseurs’ event, but a food history conference. It was the ninth edition of the International Conference on the History and Cultures of Food, an event that gathers food historians from around the globe. The conference is organized by The European Institute for the History and Culture of Foods or L’Institut Européen d’Histoire et des Cultures de l’Alimentation (IEHCA), which is affiliated with the University of Tours, and is one of the most important food studies research networks in Europe. The institute brings together leading international experts in the field of food cultures, organizes regular conferences on various topics and provides training in the field of “Food Cultures and Heritage.” This particular conference we attended aims to be a scientific event of reference, a meeting place and an essential forum for all those who work towards a better understanding of food. In that context, our session titled “Wine Vineyards in the Ottoman Empire and Türkiye” truly did bring a better understanding of viticulture in Türkiye from Ottoman times to today. The idea to organize such a session came from Dr. Özge Samancı, head of the Department of Gastronomy and Culinary Arts at Özyeğin University. She has attended all previous nine conferences, for me it was the third. Our third presenter was Ece Cankat, a research assistant at the Department of Hotel Management, of the same university.

June 24 2024
Blending plates beyond borders AYLİN ÖNEY TAN

Blending plates beyond borders

The moment our plane landed the Lefkoşe (Nicosia) airport, I realized how much I missed the island. North Cyprus used to be a regular stop for me, especially in early spring when it was just the right time for wild asparagus, the so-called “Ayrelli” in Cypriot Turkish. Cypriot cuisine is like a cornucopia of Eastern Mediterranean tastes, with many dishes similar to the usual dishes in Türkiye, yet so different, in such a local way. In certain ways, the Cypriot food sounds like the same language spoken with a strong local accent. And when it comes to accents, Cypriot Turkish is sometimes like a different language, especially when it comes to food names. It is fun to decipher the origin of certain words, actually the names give hints to various cultures that dominated or had influence on the island. Having such a strategic location in the Eastern Mediterranean, the island had always been a target for all imperial powers who wanted to control the sea trade. For thousands of years there has been a multitude of cultures in the history of the island; to name a few, Hittite, Mycenaean, Assyrian, Persian, Ancient Greek, Genoese, Eastern Roman, Syrian, Lusignan, Venetian, Ottoman and British states ruled here. The first known copper deposits in history belong to Cyprus, making it an important source of the metal and a major income for the island. The island actually takes its name from the Latin ‘cuprum,’ which means copper. The biggest trade item after copper was centered astonishingly on carobs; for centuries, carobs loaded from Cyprus ports opened trade routes to many civilizations in the Mediterranean. Today, one can still see carob warehouses from years ago in Girne (Kyrenia) Harbor. Beyond its own trade assets, the location of the island has also been a major factor influencing the Cypriot food situated at the crossroads of trade routes.

May 12 2024