Michelin impact on summer resorts
EBRU ERKE
One represents the pinnacle of the waste-free kitchen trend, while the other showcases a stylized version of Aegean cuisine. Both Malva and Elia, which are featured in the Michelin guide, impress us with the high standards and delightful flavors we long for in summer resorts.
I often point out how Michelin has introduced a new level of ambition to the restaurant industry, and I have seen this in Bodrum's establishments as well. Restaurants striving to make Michelin's radar, as well as those that have earned a star or a spot on the recommendation list, are undergoing notable transformations. One such example is Malva. In its fourth season at Susona Hotel, Malva is not only mindful of the significance of being listed but is also aiming even higher by bringing in chef Gürkan Tümsek from Copenhagen.
Chef Gürkan worked with Osman Sezener at Anhinga before moving to Belgium and Denmark to gain Michelin experience. He worked at the Marchal restaurant at l'Hotel d'Angleterre. His intention was not to remain abroad permanently but to return to his home country after fully understanding the structure and standards of a Michelin-starred kitchen.
On Malva's menu, Chef Gürkan has crafted an impressive interplay between ingredients and dishes, subtly nodding to Michelin's green star. However, he has not pushed the envelope excessively. Instead of employing gimmicky techniques like using vegetable peel powders and decorating dishes with them merely for the sake of being waste-free, he opts for thoughtful methods. For instance, the ketchup served with lamb tartare is made from the pulp of lacto-fermented tomatoes that were initially used for salad after the juice was extracted. Additionally, the lamb in the tartare comes from leftover pieces of the lamb used in the main course. While the concept of eating raw lamb might seem unusual, the combination of mustard seed pickle, pomegranate syrup, and the unique acidity of the homemade ketchup results in a deliciously balanced flavor.
The leftover herbs from the bream, the first main course on the tasting menu, were used to create a vegetable patty served as a hot, savory appetizer. This patty is topped with smoky yogurt and accompanied by a profiterole filled with tarama. For the stuffed mussel zucchini flower, they crafted both a sauce and a pilaf from the wine, onion, and parsley water used to steam the mussels, and then filled the zucchini flower with the mussel meat. Additionally, they made a flavorful sauce from the liquid of the fermented mushrooms, which was used in the exquisite, local sea scallop dish.
Malva is among the pioneering establishments to feature lionfish, an invasive Mediterranean species, on its menu. I first tasted lionfish here four years ago. This year, their lionfish ceviche is enhanced with a citrus and capia pepper sauce made from the fish's bony parts and served with rock samphire oil. Following the bream and lamb main courses, the dessert — which I consider the real highlight of the menu — is the olive oil quartet. Although intended as a tribute to the local terroir rather than a challenge, they achieved such a remarkable result that it even surprised them.
They created a cake, panna cotta, ice cream and sauce, all using memecik olive oil, and presented them together on one plate. Though it might seem like it would overwhelm the palate, when enjoyed in a single bite, it provides a delightful contrast with the distinctive heat of the memecik olive oil, balanced by an impressive mix of flavors. Malva's waste-free and holistic approach extends beyond the kitchen. Berkcan Şavuk, one of the most innovative bartenders I have recently encountered, has brought this philosophy to the bar. He works to reduce the carbon footprint of the drinks by incorporating aromatic herbs, citrus fruits, and vegetables leftover from the kitchen into cocktails through methods like infusion and drying. I would like to congratulate Malva's entire young kitchen team and Executive Chef Kaan Yıldırım, who has been a key contributor to all of the hotel's kitchens since its opening.
Another Bodrum establishment featured on Michelin's recommended list is Elia, situated within Bodrum Loft. Since last year, Elia has been under the guidance of Chef Deniz Aşan. Combining the joy of dining at tables nestled among olive trees with Chef Deniz's Aegean-inspired dishes that highlight the essence of the ingredients, Elia offers one of the most delightful dining experiences in Bodrum.
One of Chef Deniz Aşan's landmark dishes is the tomato salad, featuring three varieties of tomatoes served with a dressing made from their own juice mixed with strawberries and a generous portion of feta cheese. Simply mix everything together on the plate and use your sourdough bread to scoop it up. For sharing, you can also enjoy dishes like purslane with smoky yogurt, hummus made from Akhisar chickpeas and paired with black wheat, octopus glazed with black mulberry molasses and cooked in ashes, and roasted eggplant with yogurt.
Chef Deniz distinguishes himself with his main dishes. Contrary to those who use side dishes as an afterthought for vegetarians, he has created an outstanding alternative: celery scraping. Drawing inspiration from the zucchini scraping found in Cretan cuisine, this dish has been perfected over two years and features celery, honey, cheese, fermented seeds and sprouts. Initially, I thought celery was an unusual choice for summer, but it has quickly become one of my favorite dishes of the summer of 2024. Another standout is the Terra Cotta John Dory, cooked in ceramic clay. This dish is a more refined version of fish cooked in salt, enhanced with chicory on the side and a drizzle of vinegar-garlic oil.
