Kitchen is my playground, says Michelin-starred chef Fatih Tutak

EBRU ERKE

The term ‘family table’ refers to the dining tables in fine restaurants where the staff gathers to share a meal before service. After TURK received its second Michelin star, I was invited to the family table by its owner-chef Fatih Tutak.

When their second star was announced for the third time this year, the first thing I noticed when I turned to look behind me was him with his head in his hands, letting out a deep “oh.” You’d think they’d be accustomed to this by now. Honestly, I was even expecting a third star this year. The addition of the “avlu” (courtyard) area a few months ago, where they initiated the pre-meal experience, has greatly changed the service flow. The lounge team has always been strong, but they truly reached the top tier when Gonçalo Martins from Portugal joined the team last year.

After the second star, I was invited to their “family table.” The term “family table” refers to the tables in fine dining restaurants where the staff gathers to eat together before the service. Sitting together at these tables, enjoying their favorite homemade dishes, and even dining alongside the chefs, helps strengthen bonds and brings a sense of sharing. I was once a guest at the family table of Arzak restaurant in San Sebastián, and I still remember Juan Mari Arzak’s joy as he ate his favorite casserole-style dish, as well as the jokes he made with a warmth that contrasted with his serious demeanor in the kitchen.

Are you curious about what I saw at TURK’s family table? I saw a different side of Fatih. I’ve known Fatih since his time in Bangkok. He can be stubborn when provoked and is unmoved by others’ attempts to change his mind if he believes he’s right. He doesn’t do things just to appear likable, meaning he doesn’t seek to please others. Because of this, many perceive him as distant and reserved. While I know he’s not like that, I was reminded of it once again during the meal he shared with his team.

Half of the kitchen team has remained the same since the opening, which already proves what I just mentioned. The strong relationship between the lounge and kitchen teams must be one of the key secrets to their success. During our conversation, nearly all of the employees expressed that this place feels like a school. Fatih isn’t interested in socializing; he prefers to stay in his kitchen as much as possible, constantly working on new creations, while also encouraging his staff to develop their skills.

Despite being so self-assured, you seemed quite nervous before the Michelin ceremony. Why was that?

Tutak: Ebru, the night before, I could barely sleep, and even in the weeks leading up to it, I was walking around like a ghost. I was very restless because each year feels like a new beginning. It’s as if you’re embarking on a different adventure every time. You work hard throughout the year, and by the end of it, you’re left wondering how you’ll be recognized and what kind of results you’ll achieve.

You can’t predict anything with certainty, can you?

Tutak: It’s impossible to say for sure. You either rise, stay where you are, or fall behind. Those are the three outcomes. That’s what makes it such a thrilling experience, and it’s truly rewarding to go through it. Without that excitement, I believe there’s no real purpose in any job.

What was the first thing that crossed your mind when your second star was announced?

Tutak: It was that all of our hard work had truly paid off in a fair way. And feeling that sense of justice made me really happy.

How do you evaluate the presence of Michelin in Türkiye? I think the fact that Michelin came just a year and a half after you opened added an extra layer of excitement.

Tutak: Having Michelin here has really put Turkish cuisine in the global spotlight. After the Michelin award night, I received messages from many world-renowned chefs I admire. It’s an incredibly honorable feeling.

I still believe it’s the most influential award and rating system in the world, even though it sometimes faces criticism or is considered outdated. What are your thoughts on it?

Tutak: Let me put it this way: Michelin is Michelin, no matter what. They were the pioneers in this field. If you don’t have a Michelin star, you’re not really acknowledged in the global culinary world — that’s just how it is. This applies in France, the U.S., and Japan. All rating systems have their merit, but Michelin is the equivalent of an Oscar.

It’s like a system that defines your standing in the chef world...

Tutak: Exactly. You know you’ve truly succeeded when other chefs start respecting you. No one can assess us better than we can evaluate ourselves. You can be a gourmet, a food critic, or a writer, but no one understands this business as well as a chef. If you gain the respect of your fellow chefs, it means you’ve really achieved something.

This is a typical question, but what has changed after receiving the second star?

Tutak: Our international recognition has grown significantly, and we’ve seen a sharp increase in foreign guests. There are even people who travel specifically to dine at our restaurant. For example, many who fly with Turkish Airlines on connecting flights from Istanbul to Europe or the Far East will stop for a night just to eat here before continuing on their journey.

Success is all about the details and making a difference in those details. From what I understand, you’re a perfectionist to the point of obsession. Can you share what makes you and this place stand out?

Tutak: I teach everyone here that mastering every detail of the job is crucial. Additionally, there’s a theatrical aspect to dining here. People come not just for the food, but for that unique, theatrical experience. Otherwise, you could just prepare the food and send it out, but that’s not what we’re about.

What makes you who you are and what contributes to your success in your profession?

Tutak: I view this work as a hobby that I’m deeply passionate about. The kitchen is where I feel most at home, it’s my playground. I approach it like a child with toys, playing and experimenting. Every day, with my team, we create something new, continuously refine it, and present it. I also take great pride in offering career opportunities to those working with me, helping them grow and reach better positions in the future, expanding their horizons. This brings me immense joy and satisfaction.

Innovations are key to keeping the kitchen dynamic and self-motivated. What inspires you when creating something new?

Tutak: It could be anything — watching a movie, traveling to a new place, or even reading a book. I find inspiration everywhere. My memory is strong, and a long-forgotten moment can resurface — whether it’s something I tasted, saw, or experienced. For example, an idea might come from a yogurt shop in my neighborhood or a small pide restaurant in an out-of-the-way corner.

Do you ever feel like you’re hitting a dead end?

Tutak: Definitely I do. When I do, I hit the brakes. It’s important to slow down in life. If you’re always going full speed, you’ll eventually run out of energy. You need to take the time to recharge, and to do that, you need to clear your mind.

We know your expertise in Far Eastern techniques, but traditional heritage and roots are what truly nourish a chef. However, you’ve always been outside Türkiye while growing up. There must be much more to inspire you here in Anatolia. For example, what do you want to learn?

Tutak: When I was in Erzurum last year, we were making cağ kebabı, but I wanted to learn how to make it even better. When I asked the master a lot of questions, he became concerned and asked if I was planning to open a cağ kebabı restaurant. Of course, he didn’t know me. So I told him about TURK and showed him a photo of what we’re doing. I’m also eager to learn more about Turkish desserts because I believe they are incredibly technical. For example, I want to learn how to make pişmaniye and experiment with different ingredients to create variations.

You change the menu so frequently. Every time I visit, I see something completely different.

Tutak: I tend to get bored quickly. I have a bit of a capricious appetite, which is why I like to update the menu regularly. When a dish reaches its peak, I feel the need to remove it. Since we first opened, the only dish we’ve kept on the menu is mussels served in their shells. I can’t bear to remove it, though.

Well, you’re not just an ordinary street restaurant, so you can’t serve beans and rice every day. Are there any items you can’t do without, or that you keep updating and offering?

Tutak: Since we opened, we’ve changed the way we present the butter served with bones, our tombik bread, and honey. We’ve turned it into a bit of a ceremony—setting up a special cart to serve it from. We even cut the honey directly from the karakovan honeycombs. This presentation really catches the attention of our guests, especially the foreigners.

The team is crucial in any business, but it’s especially vital in the kitchen. You even conduct one-on-one interviews, including with interns. What qualifications are required to join TURK?

Tutak: First, let me emphasize that no one starts here with a lot of experience. We hire everyone initially as a busboy, starting from the very bottom. Hundreds of CVs come through, even from sous chefs, but we don’t hire a sous chef from outside. If you want to begin here, you need to start as an intern or busboy. After that, if you prove your skills, you can move up, but we don’t bring anyone in from the outside.

So how do you make your selection? Can you tell what’s inside someone just by looking them in the eye?

Tutak: What impresses me the most is recognizing the determination of the candidate. I’m looking for people who can show up every day, follow instructions, work non-stop for fourteen hours, and complete tasks with discipline — even if it’s not perfect sometimes — but who are eager to learn and adapt to our system. For me, things like religion, language, race, or age don’t matter. What matters is that the person is truly committed to the job, because I’m investing my time and energy in them, and I need someone who will make sure that investment isn’t wasted.

As far as I can see, their educational backgrounds are quite diverse.

Tutak: Of course, there are people from Van, Izmir, Bolu, and the Black Sea region. It really comes down to individual character. Even if someone studies at the best school in the world, the reality here can be very different.

Finally, could you share a few insights into the secret of your success in the kitchen?

Tutak: I believe that blood, sweat, and tears are the foundation of everything. It’s about love, passion, and perseverance. There’s an incredible satisfaction in doing your job well. You have to genuinely love what you do, and when you create something, you should take pride in it. I think that’s the biggest secret to success in this field. And you also need to keep pushing forward, always building on what you’ve already accomplished.