Kaicy, a blend of Mediterranean and western culinary
EBRU ERKE
The kitchen at Kaicy, which takes its name from an intriguing mosaic at the Antakya Archaeology Museum, can be described as a fusion of Eastern Mediterranean flavors with French culinary techniques, executed with precise, well-balanced touches.
Frankly speaking, when I first heard about Gamze’s initiative, I thought it was a bit, perhaps even too, audacious. While many in the food and beverage industry are cutting back, with some closing their restaurants or proceeding with extreme caution, she has taken the opposite approach. She has opened a new venue offering breakfast with caviar and champagne, where everything — from the lighting to the menu — was designed by a professional, and a chef from the kitchen of the renowned French chef, Joel Robuchon (one of the best chefs of the century, who passed away in 2018), was placed in charge. It is a daring move... but there is one crucial detail we shouldn’t overlook: As she put it herself, she is a bold Mesopotamian girl playing with fire.
We all knew Gamze Cizreli as the founder of Big Chefs, but people in Ankara recognized her long before we did, thanks to her groundbreaking work. After relocating to Istanbul, her business expanded significantly and even went public last year. Around the same time, her book Ateşle Oynayanlar (‘Fire Players’) was published. I highly recommend it to anyone who hasn’t read it; the book beautifully illustrates what can happen when different perspectives, education and family values are combined with courage and hard work.
Now, let’s talk about Gamze’s latest venture, Kaicy, which she cherishes deeply. The name Kaicy comes from an intriguing mosaic she discovered years ago at the Antakya Archaeology Museum. It translates to “Also for you.” This mosaic, once used as a doormat in Roman times, carried a message for guests entering a home: “Whatever you bring with you, I wish you the same in return.” She immediately took a photo of it and kept it for years, intending to use it in a very special project.
Kaicy is located right next to Big Chefs in Tarabya. From the welcoming team at the door to the attentive service inside, every detail is carefully managed. It’s worth noting that the Operations Manager is Aybars Taşdan, who has held senior roles at renowned establishments like Spago and Nobu. Their goal is for guests to receive the same level of care that they provide, which is why they have a “dress code” for entering the venue and ensure it’s communicated during reservations. So, if you think, “I’ve just finished a walk on the beach in Tarabya, let’s grab breakfast in sweatpants,” they’ll kindly suggest, “Big Chefs is better suited for that, we can take you next door.” It might raise some eyebrows, but I believe it’s a very fitting approach, one commonly seen abroad.
Gamze was inspired by Levantine cuisine, which she greatly admires. To clarify, “Levantine” refers to the region on the eastern shores of the Mediterranean, derived from the Latin word “levare,” meaning “sunrise.” The term was originally used to describe the people who came from the West to trade in this area. In İzmir, for example, the term “Levantine” was historically used for European merchants who traveled to the East.
Building on this concept, they set out to offer a slightly Westernized take on Eastern cuisine. The idea is solid, but the key question is who will bring it to life. Thanks to a recommendation from Murat Aslan, who has been the kitchen coordinator at Big Chefs for years, they connected with Aziz Doğrucu, a sous chef from one of London’s most iconic restaurants, the two Michelin-starred L’Atelier Robuchon. Aziz is a talented and passionate young chef, with experience working in the kitchens of Mürver and Maça Kızı before his time in London.
The kitchen at Kaicy can be described as a fusion of Eastern Mediterranean flavors with French culinary techniques, executed with precise, well-balanced touches. For example, the amuse bouche was infused with a blend of olive oil and za’atar, served alongside Hatay halhalı olives and sourdough bread made from karakılçık wheat. The bread was presented on hand-carved Neolonca wooden plates, crafted by artisans from Hatay, with a pattern inspired by karakılçık wheat — a thoughtful detail that adds depth to the experience.
The taramasalata, with a slightly different texture than usual, is paired with lemon brioche. Hummus made from fava beans is enhanced with turmeric and black truffle, while the classic French onion soup technique is given a twist with artichokes from Antakya. A cheese soufflé is served alongside kömbe, a traditional Antakya cookie, and the main dish features rested veal steak with muhammara and veal marrow butter. These dishes may seem technically ambitious on the menu, but when tasted, they maintain the essence of traditional flavors. Kaicy also offers an ambitious à la carte brunch on Saturdays and Sundays, served until 3:00 p.m.
The glass installation by artist Nahide Büyükkaymakçı, representing the evergreen laurel trees of Hatay and the orange blossoms of Arsuz, the signature fragrance created by Atelier Rebul for Kaicy, the leather designs by İrem Kınay, the exceptional service — we rarely encounter these days —and, of course, the delicious food. There are so many thoughtful touches here that will make you feel at ease. For me, the most significant detail is witnessing what a well-educated, dedicated and courageous republican woman can achieve when she sets her mind to it.
