Gucci’s dark glamour on runway in Milan

MILAN-Agence France-Presse

Fearless musketeers and seductive water nymphs sashayed down the catwalk at the Gucci show on Feb. 22, kicking off Milan Fashion Week with a stunning array of velvet capes and see-through dresses.

“This is modern-day romanticism. A dramatic sensuality, a dark glamour. With subtle tones of provocative intellect,” designer Frida Giannini said.

The show opened with military-style jackets and equestrian-inspired trousers worn with flat riding boots and a bag closed with a stirrup clasp, before moving on to fur coats, mink-and-chiffon numbers and splendid flowing capes.

Bejewelled tassels and large bows hung from the neckline and waists of soft printed silk and velvet playsuits reminiscent of pyjamas and cut in masculine lines, as Gucci moved from “fearless femininity” to “dandy indulgence”.

The tone changed as Giannini unveiled her evening wear, with a stream of long flowing dresses in see-through wrinkled tulle and adorned with patches of tapestry and floral prints in black, forest green and plum.

A three-piece collection in blue and green feathers -- a dress, skirt and jacket -- sparked applause from front-row critics and the soft saddlebags in black crocodile looked like they would be a fast favourite.

Dark feathers and tulle were central themes in Alberta Ferretti’s show later on Feb. 22, but they took a far subtler tone, and were gently scattered on top of black mesh tops or whisped out from skirts.

Like Giannini’s seductresses, Ferretti’s collection mixed power with romance by inserting leather panels into a velvet coat, pairing pinstripes with delicate heels or stitching wool inserts onto a luxurious fur body warmer.

Models floated down the runway to haunting music in blue and red gowns that swept the floor, decorated with light panelling in velvet, and with the arms, neck or back exposed, or with sheer, see-through material across the chest.

Despite similarities in concepts and some of the materials, Ferretti’s creations were much more structured than Giannini’s, with crafted necklines or bodices worn above skirts that had a hint of a bell structure.

Gucci and Ferretti kicked off the autumn-winter 2012 collections which will see 72 Italian and international brands take to the runways in a week of dazzling shows and parties attended by the elite of the fashion world.