Dessert: It’s all about the presentation

EBRU ERKE

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Antonio Bachour, one of the world’s top pastry chefs, shares, “Building a career in this field requires real passion and patience. We work through all holidays and weekends. If you’re just in it for the money, this isn’t the job for you. I couldn’t even afford a car until 15 years ago [now at 49]. But with my limited means, I went to Europe and worked under different chefs for five years to gain experience. To excel in this profession, you need hands-on experience. And it’s about working diligently over many years.”

Bachour, who has frequently topped global rankings, recently earned the Innovative Chef of the Year award in the pastry category from La Liste, a French restaurant guide. In essence, Bachour is a significant figure in the world of gastronomy.

Antonio Bachour visited Istanbul last week for his second consulting stint with Espressolab. I had the chance to sit down with him and discuss the current state of the industry and his observations in Türkiye. The fact that he was brought in for a second round indicates he made a strong impression the first time. My hunch was correct — Espressolab kitchen coordinator Ünal Binbirdirek revealed that one of Bachour’s desserts from last year sold over ten thousand units per month across all branches. Working with a chef of his caliber is a valuable experience for the kitchen team, though Chef Ünal noted that it’s no walk in the park. Antonio brings a rigorous, almost military-level discipline to the kitchen.

Espressolab, a Turkish brand fully funded with domestic capital, has recently caught everyone’s eye with its fast-growing number of branches. This growth seems genuine and not just superficial. According to Ersin Kefeli, the brand’s marketing and corporate communications manager, Espressolab stands out because they source their coffee directly from small producers, rather than buying from wholesalers like many other brands. They even employ a foreign coffee consultant who travels the globe to ensure quality — right now, he’s in Peru, visiting farms and checking out the harvests. In a nutshell, they are committed to ethical values in their main profession, which is coffee making, but they also aim to make sure that what they serve with their coffee is the best. Unlike most chain coffee shops that rely on frozen products and outsourced kitchens, Espressolab puts a lot of effort into its own offerings. If you want to see their commitment firsthand, check out their coffee experience area in Merter — it’s more than just a coffee shop, and it’s a great way to see their passion and idealism in action.

Revisiting the chat with Antonio, he noted that last year’s top-seller was a red fruit dessert, so this year he wanted to change things up a bit. He understands that pistachio desserts are a big hit with Turks, which is why he’s introduced the Pistachio Gateau this year. Alongside that, new offerings include the Coffee Chocolate Tart, Breton Saint Honore, Marble Cake, and Chocolate Cookie.

Getting an external expert’s viewpoint always brings fresh ideas. So, I asked Antonio which dessert he thinks should represent Türkiye. Without hesitation, he chose oven-baked rice pudding. While I wouldn’t have been surprised if he’d picked baklava or a milk-based dessert like Tavukgöğsü, his choice was oven-baked rice pudding. “I’ve had many milk or rice pudding desserts around the world, but none are baked like this; it’s a unique and wonderful flavor,” he explains. He also mentioned that he finds Antakya-style knafeh, which is cooked by flipping it on large trays, to be very special.

Brief information on Antonio

- What are the latest trends in patisserie worldwide? Right now, croissant-based creations are really popular. A recent example is the Crownie, a blend of brownie and croissant. Looking ahead, the next big trend will be desserts featuring plant-based proteins rather than animal ones.

- Three essential ingredients for him in the kitchen are: First, chocolate, particularly from South American cocoa beans, known for their robust flavor and the dominance of small producers. Second, yogurt (I expected him to mention butter), which he appreciates for the texture and subtle acidity it brings to desserts. Third, tropical fruits, which he believes, even in small amounts, can add striking flavors to a dessert.

- What inspires him the most? Everything around him. Whether it’s a flower he spots while walking or a scent he encounters in a park, it can spark ideas for a new dessert.

- The dessert that represents him: He says he would design a dessert that’s simple in flavor but strikingly elaborate in appearance. As he puts it, “What makes you crave a dessert is how appealing it looks.”