Couture week comes to Paris amid riot fears

PARIS

The fashion world is on edge as haute couture week kicks off today in Paris, which has seen nights of violent riots over the police killing of a teenager.

French label Celine cancelled its menswear show - scheduled outside the official calendar - on July 2 due to the riots, with designer Hedi Slimane saying it was "inconsiderate" to hold a fashion show when Paris was "bereaved and bruised.”

Violence appeared to be ebbing somewhat in and around the French capital over the weekend, and the haute couture shows - celebrating the most expensive, tailor-made end of fashion - were due to go ahead as planned, the French fashion federation told AFP on July 2.

First up is Schiaparelli, with fashionistas wondering if it can beat the social media meltdown caused by last season's fake animal heads.

The heads, sported by the likes of Kylie Jenner, were another publicity coup for Schiaparelli artistic director Daniel Roseberry, who has overseen a revamp of the brand and attracted the likes of Lady Gaga and Beyonce as clients.

Animal activists seemed unsure what to think.

The U.S. branch of PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) called the heads "fabulously innovative,” while PETA's French branch said a thought should be spared for the silkworms and sheep "who have really suffered.”

A dominant feature of this season in Paris has been the lavish spending by Saudi Arabia as it tries to establish its own fashion industry.

That continues this week, with couturier Mohammad Ashi becoming the first Saudi designer to show as part of the official haute couture week roster with his eponymous label.

There have been multiple events across the menswear and couture weeks to introduce newcomers from the kingdom, including a cocktail soiree at the Ritz hotel on Monday.

Ashi has been a favorite of celebrities for a while, dressing the likes of Queen Rania of Jordan, Penelope Cruz and star of the new Indiana Jones movie, Phoebe Waller-Bridge, who wore one of his creations to the London premiere last week.

Saudi Arabia has been pumping billions, not just into fashion but everything from film to football, as part of radical social changes overseen by de facto ruler, Crown Prince Mohammad Bin Salman.

Couture week will also see first-time appearances by the United States' Thom Browne and France's Charles de Vilmorin alongside regulars like Christian Dior.

De Vilmorin, just 26, will present for his own brand after a short-lived tenure as artistic director of Rochas.