An iron fist in a velvet glove

EBRU ERKE

Perhaps her name hasn't reached many of you yet. That is because she is a chef who prefers to work quietly and steadily, avoiding the spotlight. Allow me to introduce Suna Hakyemez, the head chef at Roka in Istanbul. Her story and dedication have become a source of inspiration for many in the culinary world.

I cover gastronomic developments, new dining restaurants and chef profiles. Yet, what excites me the most is highlighting individuals who influence the sector, particularly budding entrepreneurs and culinary students. Suna stands out in this regard. For me, the best way to characterize her is as "an iron fist in a velvet glove."

Beyond her graceful and courteous exterior, her role demands a toughness not everyone possesses, regardless of gender. As the lead of a globally recognized restaurant, her job is exceptionally challenging.

Suna embarked on her career at Zuma in Istanbul immediately after completing her studies in Gastronomy and Culinary Arts at Yeditepe University. Within two years, she relocated to London to work in different branches of Roka. It is worth mentioning for those unfamiliar that Zuma and Roka are sister brands within the same group. Zuma's debut in London in 2002 marked a significant moment with its fresh take on Japanese cuisine, inspiring numerous establishments to replicate its menu over the years. Observing the popularity of robatayaki at Zuma, its founder, Rainer Becker, in collaboration with chef Hamish Brown, launched Roka two years later, a brand dedicated to robatayaki, following Zuma's opening.

Suna's professional path included not just a stint at Roka in London but also a two-year work at The Fat Duck, the celebrated three Michelin-starred restaurant led by Heston Blumenthal, a chef held in high esteem by his peers. She further advanced her career by serving as a sous chef at Trivet, a restaurant co-owned by internationally acclaimed sommelier İsa Bal and chef Jonny Lake, situated at London Bridge. Amidst these endeavors, as Roka expanded internationally from its London base, Suna opted to rejoin the Roka family, taking her expertise to their venues in Mallorca and Miami. Her most recent role has been at Roka in Istanbul, which is poised to celebrate its second anniversary this month.

During a discussion with Hamish Brown, the brand's executive chef, at the launch event two years ago, he expressed his sense of relief in opening the Istanbul location with the involvement of Suna: "Every place has unique touches from us. Take, for example, the inclusion of artichokes in our Istanbul menu. Each venue faces its own set of challenges, particularly with sourcing unique ingredients. Thankfully, Suna, our lead chef who has been part of our team for a long time, managed the ingredient selection and sourcing efforts over the past six months. It feels great to come to Suna’s house with her."

Gaining expertise in Far Eastern or Asian culinary traditions is crucial for mastering various cooking techniques and, notably, the art of balancing distinct flavors. Suna's skill set was significantly enhanced by her time at Roka. She acquired a refined palate attuned to Japanese flavors, mastered the meticulous culinary techniques of Japan, learned to oversee a large team and extensive menu without fault and perhaps most crucially, honed her ability to operate on an international scale. Moreover, the mere ability to manage the complex three-tier robata grill is a noteworthy achievement in itself. Place Suna at the helm of any top-tier restaurant worldwide, and she will manage it with seamless precision.

⁠To simplify the selection process for diners at Roka, here are three top picks from Suna’s delicacies. Leading the list is tuna tataki, a dish where the tuna is presented over julienned daikon (Japanese radish), enhanced with a dressing of apple, ginger and mustard, and finished with a garnish of spring onions and sesame seeds.

As for steak tartare, finely chopped tenderloin is flavored with truffle-infused soy sauce and artfully arranged on the plate, then embellished with ponzu pearls, pickled daikon, nori puree, chopped green spring onions, and fresh truffle slices, accompanied by rice crackers. The chef's third delicacy, beef marrow teriyaki, involves halving the beef shin bone lengthwise to reveal the rich marrow, which is then coated in teriyaki sauce and caramelized over a robata fire. This dish is presented alongside miso bread, a red onion salad and confit garlic.

Roka is quite busy these days. In celebration of its 20th anniversary, the restaurant plans to reintroduce its greatest hits from the past two decades, featuring them seasonally throughout the year. Special mini menus showcasing a curated assortment of dishes will be available four times — in January, April, July and October. Highlights include scallop tataki paired with white asparagus and yuzu sauce, Japanese rice adorned with crab meat and wasabi tobiko, grilled corn accompanied by smoked butter, duck breast infused with kombu smoke, and a dessert of almond yogurt hot cake served with miso caramel ice cream. These are just some of the culinary delights guests can expect during this celebratory period.