What the mindset of a chef-driven restaurant is

EBRU ERKE

Filo D'olio restaurants, opened by Danilo Zanna, do not have deep freezers. Everything from pasta to dessert is made on a daily basis, which is Zanna's red line.

Frankly, I was not too interested in Filo D'olio until today. Italian restaurants are a dime a dozen, and it is common knowledge that many of these places are helmed by chefs who are not Italian and have never set foot in Italy. You can guess what the menu looks like at these pretended Italian spots. And what’s more, the vast majority of establishments that do have Italian chefs opt to stay safe and adhere to the tried-and-true classics that Turks simply cannot resist. Of course, this is motivated by some business considerations.

At Filo D'olio, I came across an Italian spot that stood out from those I previously described. With Danilo Zanna, one of the most renowned chefs in the country, it is hardly surprising to see the chef's name take precedence over the restaurant’s. While this might benefit average restaurants, I can confidently state that it works to the detriment of this particular venue. As I mentioned to him, Danilo shares some of the responsibility for this situation. He should explain a bit more about what he is doing and what kind of mission he has taken on here, as he is not running a simple process.

And he's right. They spend nearly two-thirds of the year in the studio filming MasterChef Türkiye. To use time efficiently there, he constructed himself a study room where he attends meetings between shoots. During the few months of a break from shooting, he thought it was time to reveal the true face of Filo D'olio.

He presently owns three restaurants located in Istanbul, İzmir, and the recently opened one in Bursa. Plans are underway to launch two additional outlets in various cities shortly. I met with Danilo at his location in Vadistanbul, where we enjoyed a meal together. True to form, he shared insights into his work with a cheerful demeanor, vibrant energy, and sparkling eyes. Additionally, I couldn't help but notice his gracious and welcoming attitude towards his admirers, who frequently approached him for photographs, greeting them with patience and a smile.

Let's talk about Danilo and what he does, which astonished me greatly. Each Filo D'olio restaurant he founded boasts a unique menu, as every location is inspired by a different Italian city, mirroring its specific culinary traditions. For example, the Istanbul venue showcases dishes typical of Rome, the Izmir outlet offers flavors from Florence, and the Bursa restaurant brings Sicilian cuisine to the table. Danilo aimed to parallel Istanbul with Italy's capital, chose Florence for Izmir as a nod to the city's historical connection with the former consul. And in Bursa, he took a completely opposite approach and wanted to add energy and color to the city by featuring Sicily, one of the most vivid spots in Italy.

When I inquired about how he manages the demanding nature of his business, he responded, "My vision was to establish a restaurant that transcends the conventional Turkish market standards, aiming for a more soulful essence. I desired to present authentic Italian cuisine, that's exactly what I wanted. I thought, the more I can spread this, the more I can share my own culture with Türkiye. However, there is a catch: as you expand your restaurant chain, you turn into a franchise, which often results in becoming commonplace. To avoid this, my approach was to invent diverse concepts for each location, thereby sparking curiosity among frequenters to explore our other venues."

Put simply, each restaurant operates with the mindset of a standalone chef-driven restaurant. It is not an easy task. Managing such venues, especially when they bear your name, leaves no room for error. Apart from a few things in common, diverging menus necessitate distinct ingredients. This becomes particularly challenging in Italian cuisine, where the emphasis is on the quality of ingredients rather than culinary techniques. They tackled this issue through diligent research by development agencies and by using the products produced by women's cooperatives, focusing on maximizing the use of local produce wherever possible.

For instance, during the summer months, he sources tomatoes from Italy, whereas in winter, he opts for winter tomatoes from Yozgat, a find credited to Ömür Akkor. In his İzmir-based restaurant he uses goose from Kars, in his Istanbul restaurant he uses artichokes from Urla and Aydın, lamb from Balıkesir, white onions from Thrace and garlic from Taşköprü. The rich pistachio sauce that is a key component of his hallmark dessert is uniquely prepared in Gaziantep.

He sources specialty cheeses like Parmigiano Reggiano and Pecorino Romano directly from Italy, while fresh cheeses such as mozzarella and burrata are supplied by Napoli Antica, a venture he launched prior to the restaurant in cooperation with Italian cheese expert Cosimo Rotolo. Another thing I appreciate is that all of the pasta is prepared fresh by the housewives. They work with municipalities to employ women in local communities. "No chef can match the skill with which housewives wield a rolling pin. In the meantime, we touch the lives of many women," he said.

Filo D'olio restaurants operate without deep freezers, adhering to Danilo's strict policy of preparing everything from pasta to desserts fresh daily. This redline principle embodies the chef-driven restaurant ethos that I mentioned earlier in this piece. As I enjoyed a serving of Fettuccine Alfredo, I found myself contemplating whether my next visit should be to the İzmir or Bursa location, with Milan and Capri on the horizon for future expansions. Though there's not enough space to go into the specifics of the cuisine, understanding the philosophy behind a restaurant can be as enriching as sampling the entire menu. This is certainly the case here. Thank you and well done, Danilo...