Safderun: A culinary tribute to Anatolia’s finest ingredients

EBRU ERKE

Savaş Zafer is one of those chefs who embrace the cuisine of the land he lives in, acknowledges the value of its ingredients and, in short, revives our hopes for the new generation.

When I first met Savaş Zafer, Safderun was just a few months away from opening. At the time, he was (and still is) leading the kitchen at Perihan Meyhane in Göztepe, and from what I heard, he was doing a good job. When I asked him about the kind of cuisine he planned for the new restaurant, he eagerly showed me his notes. The list of ingredients was much longer than I anticipated, featuring items like pomegranate syrup from Oğuzeli, mature kasseri cheese from Malkara, and purple onions from Kapıdağ, in addition to more familiar ingredients such as garlic from Taşköprü and olive oil from Milas. Another page contained a list of dishes that was at least as extensive as the list of ingredients.

We know that the key focus is not just creating this list of ingredients but also actually sourcing them. “Dear Ebru, I have found the producers one by one and will personally visit each producer before the restaurant opens to establish a warmer and one-to-one relationship,” he said. “Historically, the best has always been found in Istanbul, and I want to bring that tradition to my kitchen by the Golden Horn,” he added. Eager to see how well he could deliver on his promises, I was among the first to visit Safderun upon its opening. The venue is housed in a freestanding stone building at the entrance to Feshane Artİstanbul on the shores of the Golden Horn, owned by Istanbul Municipality. At first glance, it is striking for its high ceilings, which create a sense of spaciousness, and its simple, elegant decor.

When I first sat down at the table, I eagerly glanced at the menu and thought to myself, “Well done.” Savaş brings a sense of reality to the idealistic new generation. Fortunately, since we were in a large group, I could order most of the dishes I was curious about. We began our meal with cold appetizers — gambilya fava, borlotti beans in olive oil, beetroot and artichokes. Gambilya, a small-grained legume native to Bodrum and its vicinity, was brewed in water with cardamom and cloves, and the recipe used oak honey instead of sugar. The subtle refinement added by these two simple ingredients was impressive.

The borlotti beans were first boiled and then slowly cooked with garlic cloves in a generous amount of oil in confit style. They were served with a smooth, thick tomato sauce. This cooking method made the garlic soft and sweet, melting in the mouth, while the borlotti beans retained a slight crunch on the outside. In the beetroot salad, the beetroot was cooked with onion, which infused its flavor into the beetroot, and the cave-aged Divle cheese on top further enhanced the taste. The leaf liver was one of my favorites. The chef prepared it by marinating it in a kiwi-based sauce for a maximum of 10 minutes, which imparted a distinctive acidity. This shows that the liver's flavor is influenced not only by its quality and cooking time but also by other factors.

The artichoke was accompanied by a passion fruit aioli sauce. The main courses featured a unique twist on tomato rice, kadınbudu köfte (beef and rice meatballs), and a grilled fish sandwich. The chef's signature dish, the grilled fish sandwich, was made with slices of buttered French bread brioche, layered with salad ingredients, a special sauce, and topped with grilled fish. We sampled all these dishes, but my thoughts drifted to other tempting options like Muğla kıstırma with spinach and Swiss chard, and Bafra pide bread baked in a stone oven.

At 32 years old, Savaş's perspective, ingredient knowledge, and technical skills highlight the value of a solid education. He studied at the Gastronomy Department of Özyeğin University, gaining practical experience in the Cordon Bleu kitchen. Additionally, he benefits from the support of an idealistic brand like Akkomarka, which has faith in him and has made a significant investment in his career.

Savaş has always had a passion for cooking. One of his most cherished food memories is of his grandmother placing him on the counter, making lalanga (deep-fried flatbread) on the stove, and serving it to him hot. So, he has included lalanga on his breakfast menu. His mother's favorite dish is tomato rice. Savaş's mother is Perihan Savaş, a detail he doesn't often mention but is worth noting, and Perihan Meyhane, mentioned earlier, is named after her. As for the name Safderun, it is derived from the Ottoman term meaning “pure and clear,” perfectly reflecting the essence of his cuisine, which features the purest Anatolian ingredients with a distinctly refined touch. Savaş is one of those chefs who embrace the cuisine of the land he lives in, acknowledges the value of its ingredients and, in short, revives our hopes for the new generation. I am confident that we will hear much more about him in the future.