Setting the table again!
Early November has a distinct feel for the Turkish people. It is a time of solemnity and reflection, not just because of the fallen leaves or the typical autumn gloom, but because it evokes a deep sense of longing for the past. This period is often described as a national time of remembrance, when people reflect on the early years of the Republic of Türkiye and honor its founder, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk.
First, it is Oct. 29 that marks Republic Day, a holiday celebrated with joy across the country. The day is not necessarily celebrated in a nationalistic patriotic way, but more likely with a strong sentiment of admiration for the early years of the young Türkiye. When the celebrations are over, we step into November, a time when everyone begins to focus on remembering Atatürk and his visionary leadership, as the anniversary of his passing on Nov. 10 draws near.
On Nov. 10, the sadness is so deep that it feels almost tangible in the air. At precisely 9:05 in the morning, the nation comes to a standstill for two minutes. The wail of the siren pierces the silence, and across the country, people pause to pay their respects to Atatürk. Traffic halts, and it feels as if time itself has stopped. A total silence is observed throughout Türkiye for two minutes in memory of Atatürk.
Strangely, this period between Oct. 29th Republic Day and Nov. 10 reminds me of the period between Christmas and the New Year in the Christian world. It is the period dedicated to everything related to the country’s foundation and its founder. In the past, it was forbidden to consume alcoholic beverages on Nov 10th, as drinking was associated with getting merry and having fun. However, this ban was lifted about three decades ago. In recent years, it has become very popular to commemorate Atatürk with elegantly set tables, admiring his approach to introducing a contemporary Western forward lifestyle. The focus is on his favorite tastes and elaborate tables, and needless to say, it is very trendy to make nostalgic menus from the favorite dishes of Atatürk and typical dishes of the period. People try to recreate his famed tables with menus that focus on his favorite dishes served on exquisitely laid tables, but the choices are rather scarce when it comes to list the dishes he particularly enjoyed. The reality is that Atatürk’s table was not necessarily about exquisite taste or sophisticated table settings, but rather it is more about the messages he conveyed through his tables.
Simple flavors
It is known that Atatürk enjoyed very simple or basic straightforward tastes in his daily life. He detested onion and garlic. He could demand his favorite dishes on his table again and again. In İpek Çalışlar’s book “Latife,” it is told that his short-term wife, Latife Hanım, and her sister, Vecihe Hanım, would often go into the kitchen and make “makarna” the Italian-style pasta with tomato sauce. Apparently the “makarna” was coming from İzmir, as the only pasta factory was established in 1922, a year before the Republic was announced. Another favorite he enjoyed most was a runny omelet, mostly prepared by Latife herself. There were certain dishes that the kitchen would take care ready in case he wanted it promptly. The master chef Mahmut in the Çankaya residence would make a semolina halva every single day, taking care that it has a slightly wet consistency, just the way Atatürk liked it. Of course, these are the flavors of daily life. Banquets and protocol dinners are completely another matter.
Setting the table again
Atatürk’s settlement in Ankara was the vineyard house known as Kasapoğlu Mansion in Çankaya Bağlar district (Vineyard’s area) in Ankara. It was the beginning of a new era. The vineyard house, which would later be known as the Çankaya Köşkü, was overhauled by Architect Vedat Tek to accommodate guests. In the renovated and revamped building, it would be possible to set a table where Atatürk would dine with his political companions. However, these tables were not so much about eating and drinking as they were tables of conversation where many topics were discussed. The so-called Çankaya table was a working table where the first decisions of the newly established Republic of Türkiye were taken with long hours of democratic discussions. It was more like a meeting table with food and drinks served. In one corner, Atatürk’s famous blackboard was omnipresent, with white chalks and a felt eraser. It is even said that sharpened pencils and notepads for taking notes were placed next to each plate as if like essential cutlery. The fact that Atatürk created this working environment around a table was to allow everyone to express their opinions freely, he truly believed that a convivial table was the right medium for people to feel relaxed to take the floor even to convey controversial views. Setting such a table was a message that reveals his belief in democracy.
Gastro diplomacy at Ankara Palace
The new capital Ankara was undergoing a rapid change. In fact, the choice of Ankara as the capital instead of Istanbul was a challenge. Choosing a dusty muddy town in central Anatolia over Istanbul, the glorious mighty capital of the disintegrating Ottoman Empire, conveyed a completely different message. It was a message to the whole world that we could rise from our ashes, create a new country, a new capital from scratch, and rebuild the state table in the most unpromising location. Of course, building a brand-new city was not easy. One of the utmost inevitable necessities was the construction of a large hotel, where large-scale official invitations would be held and foreign official guests would be hosted. For this purpose, the foundation of Ankara Palas was laid in 1924, directly opposite the first Parliament building. Although many difficulties were encountered during the construction process, Ankara Palas, which would revitalize the capital's social life, was finally opened on April 17, 1928. Ankara now had a place worthy of a capital city at the level of contemporary civilization, as it was called at the time. From now on, the protocol dinners where foreign state guests would be hosted would be held here. Soon Swedish prince Gustav Adolf would be hosted at a grand dinner starting with Çankaya crème velouté and ending with Stockholm parfait. This was another message about setting the table once again, in a new state building, in the new capital of the new country, Türkiye!