Coffee conversation

Coffee is a way of communication. It stimulates conversation, no doubt about it. It also makes you think faster, evokes ideas and prompts new prospects. Sometimes, even a sip of coffee brings forth an instant project, sometimes unexpectedly. This is what exactly happened a few weeks back in Barcelona when talking with a food researcher colleague, Sırma Güven. I was there for the SCWC, Science & Cooking World Congress, and we exchanged ideas over a cup of coffee. It was not Turkish coffee definitely but rather a quick espresso in a paper cup in the aula of Barcelona University, and its effects were instant. She asked me if I had done any studies on the history of Turkish coffee, to which I nodded positively in reply, and she was already drafting a plan. Her caffein-infused idea was to have me back in Barcelona to give a talk for the occasion of the International Turkish Coffee Day to be celebrated on Dec. 5. It was quick! Now, only 20 days later, my luggage is almost overweight, full of “cezve” Turkish coffee pots, various coffee samples, and all the Turkish delight morsels to go along with coffee, to present and taste at the cultural center Ateneu Barselonès.

As I pointed out, our decision was made swiftly over a quick sip, but with Turkish coffee, one must set aside time — not only to prepare and savor it but also to explain what Turkish coffee truly is. First of all, the coffee we tag with a nationality was once plainly called coffee, without any national connotation. This is simply because it was the only type of coffee we knew, and we did not need to differentiate it. It was only after other types of coffee were introduced in Türkiye, starting with instant coffee and followed by everything from espresso to Americano, that we began to label our coffee with a national tag. Even in former Ottoman territory countries, it was the same. They first began to call the good old coffee they knew as Turkish coffee, but borders created nationalistic feelings, so naming the exact same coffee as Greek or Armenian was inevitable. Actually, it was the Ottoman governor Özdemir Paşa that spotted the beverage in Yemen, when it became part of Ottoman lands. Quickly after, it was brought to Istanbul in the early to mid-1500s, and then it was spread to all Ottoman lands and beyond, firstly to Venice, then to the rest of Europe and the world.

To keep short, Turkish coffee, and the similar, is primarily a method of brewing coffee with ultra-fine ground powdered coffee in a pot with or without sugar, and serving it with its grounds in a small cup. It is never filtered, so one has to wait a moment or so, for the sedimentary grounds, “telve” as we call, to settle. That is also the reason to add the sugar beforehand if sweetened coffee is desired. Preparation also requires attention, when the coffee rises to the boil, there is a froth that builds up, and attention must be taken to transfer this fine frothy part to the cup. Such delicate details make up a good cup of Turkish coffee. But this was not all. In the past, coffee preparation and serving was almost ritualistic, or ceremonial, involving fine features like incense burning and serving morsels of sweet delights to accompany, which was later tagged as Turkish delight by the British. There was at times even music playing. It was savored with small talk, or even hot debates on the men’s part, or big gossip on the women’s part. It was never without conversation. That said, even if you have a cup of Turkish coffee all alone, you usually spare time for your thoughts, and perhaps even start a conversation with your inner self. Turkish coffee needs time and attention, one has to spare the time for a small cup of coffee. So, coffee was never just a cup of any warm beverage, but a way of life, taking a tranquil moment from the rush of the day. This attitude is also why it was associated with the Turkish way of life, in that case meaning all the people of Ottoman lands.

It is a recent trend to devote a certain day to a drink or food item. Turkish coffee was no exception. Dec. 5 was chosen as the International Day of Turkish Coffee. The date was chosen because it was the day of its inclusion into the UNESCO List, when in 2013 “Turkish Coffee Culture and Tradition” was inscribed on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The inscription reads as follows:

“Turkish coffee combines special preparation and brewing techniques with a rich communal traditional culture. The freshly roasted beans are ground to a fine powder; then the ground coffee, cold water and sugar are added to a coffee pot and brewed slowly on a stove to produce the desired foam. The beverage is served in small cups, accompanied by a glass of water, and is mainly drunk in coffee-houses where people meet to converse, share news and read books. The tradition itself is a symbol of hospitality, friendship, refinement and entertainment that permeates all walks of life. An invitation for coffee among friends provides an opportunity for intimate talk and the sharing of daily concerns. Turkish coffee also plays an important role on social occasions such as engagement ceremonies and holidays; its knowledge and rituals are transmitted informally by family members through observation and participation. The grounds left in the empty cup are often used to tell a person’s fortune. Turkish coffee is regarded as part of Turkish cultural heritage: it is celebrated in literature and songs, and is an indispensable part of ceremonial occasions.”

Going back to our quick coffee talk with my friend Sırma Güven, her suggestion was to organize an event in Barcelona for the occasion of International Turkish Coffee Day, with me talking about everything in regard to its history, its spread and rituals, and Dr. F. Xavier Medina Luque, director of the UNESCO chair on Food, Culture and Development, about the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List. Our Turkish Consulate in Barcelona arranged the venue Ateneu Barselonès, with special thanks to Barcelona Consul General Ayşe Zeybek, and our talk and presentation will be on 4th December. Xavier Medina is also the Director of the Department of Food Systems, Culture and Society, UOC. Barcelona, and their encounter with Sırma started a decade ago on the occasion of a symposium, which eventually within the course of years encouraged her to move to BCN and further her academic studies here. Just as coffee brings people together, that quick sip brought us all together, now to take a deeper look at Turkish coffee and share with others.