Locally inspired, stylized and tasty

EBRU ERKE

Özgür Üstün, the executive chef at the Michelin-recommended Avlu Restaurant, is a key figure in the new generation of chefs, known for his expertise in local ingredients, his command of advanced cooking techniques and, most importantly, his down-to-earth personality.

The tasting menu in front of me at Avlu Restaurant was called “7 Regions.” We are about to embark on an Anatolian tour covering 11 cities and all Turkish regions. When I look at the descriptions, the dishes are both familiar and unfamiliar. If I weren’t acquainted with Chef Özgür, I might think, “Oh no,” because many attempt to create their own “fusion” without any exposure to foreign cuisines or the necessary techniques. Why mix flavors you don’t understand? Why, so to speak, turn a plate into a clash of incompatible tastes? I find that perplexing. But let’s refocus on the exciting Anatolian tour ahead.

The first dish — or rather, the first bite — is çiğ köfte. We enjoy the çiğ köfte served as an amuse bouche, designed to awaken our taste buds, all in a single bite. In terms of appearance and preparation, it differs significantly from the çiğ köfte we’re familiar with. They create a steak tartare and mix it with a classic, meatless çiğ köfte blend, then place it in delicate, crispy tart shells. The flavor is exactly that of çiğ köfte. After this delightful amuse-bouche, which left a pleasant touch of flavor on our palates, I’m even more eager for the second course.

After Urfa and Adıyaman, we now travel to the other end of the country, to Urla in İzmir. They create a filling for the small-bowl Urla artichokes using a blend of tomatoes, allspice, fresh herbs, currants, and vine leaves. After cooking the mixture, they remove the vine leaves, make a sauce with olive oil, and stuff the remaining mixture into the cooked artichokes. This is served alongside a peach artichoke puree and a carrot puree with a hint of cumin and coriander. While it may sound a bit complex in description, the dish itself is very balanced and refined, allowing you to taste almost every ingredient clearly.

Another dish I particularly enjoyed was their take on Sivas’s katmer. They combined borage, Indian knotgrass, blewits, and plenty of onions, wrapped it in buttered katmer dough, and baked it closed. When serving, they added a touch of cranberry puree on the side and a few delicate drops of sooty yogurt on top. The result was so impressive that this Sivas katmer could easily grace the menu of a high-end French restaurant and wow every diner. This is where Chef Üstün’s expertise in French cuisine truly shone.

No, he isn’t a Cordon Bleu graduate and hasn’t lived in France. He hails from Bolu’s Mengen province and completed his culinary education at the Mengen culinary high school. After graduating, he gained some experience in Istanbul before moving to Dubai. He knew that enhancing his knowledge of Turkish cuisine with international experiences would set him apart from his competitors. Dubai, known for its restaurants featuring top chefs from around the world, offered him that opportunity. When he learned that Alain Ducasse, whose book he admired and kept by his bedside, was opening a restaurant in Dubai, he did everything he could to join the team at Ducasse’s Atmosphere. After a couple of years there, he returned to Türkiye.

The Avlu Restaurant, led by Üstün, is situated in the courtyard of the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet, a landmark hotel recognized globally, originally built as an Ottoman prison. He is fortunate to have the full support of the hotel team, including manager Serap Akkuş, F&B Director Yalçın Pekşen, Marketing Manager Sevla Şener, and Public Relations Manager Nil Ataç. Serap Akkuş, who interviewed and hired him, has a clear vision for the restaurant. Aiming to create a venue worthy of Michelin recognition while supporting local talent, she had Üstün in mind from the start. Her instincts were correct, as Avlu is now featured on Michelin’s recommendation list.

However, there is also a significant risk involved. As the main restaurant of an international chain hotel, you are responsible for guest satisfaction while also striving for a Michelin star. This requires a more focused menu rather than a broad selection. Chef Üstün has successfully balanced these demands. Avlu now offers a refined interpretation of Turkish cuisine that emphasizes the flavors of its ingredients. Notably, the seasonal tasting menu includes a vegetarian option, a detail we hope to see in all fine dining establishments. Chef Üstün tends to remain behind the scenes, preferring to communicate through his dishes rather than seeking the spotlight. He stands out as a unique figure among his peers.