La Terrazza: A true chef’s heaven

EBRU ERKE

La Terrazza, led by Claudio Chinali, is a true chef’s haven, where the meticulous choice of ingredients and innovative Italian dishes come together to deliver delightful surprises.

“I’m exhausted from discussing Italian food and its popularity at conferences in Türkiye for the past decade. I’d rather focus on other topics, like myself, Claudio. I want to share my vision shaped by my culture, the ingredients from Türkiye that inspire me, and their potential on the international stage,” says Claudio Chinali, with a hint of frustration. And he has a point. I’ve known him since he first arrived in Türkiye and have witnessed his significant contributions to both Italian and Turkish cuisine.

This venue operates with a completely different concept from the other food and drink spots in Eataly — it’s more like a chef’s restaurant. I’m not sure how many people realize this. After opening Terrazza, Claudio discovered that our view of Italian cuisine goes beyond just pizza margherita, penne arrabbiata, carpaccio, and tiramisu. He finds this a bit challenging and is working to change it with Terrazza.

Claudio Chinali, who oversees everything from cheese to pasta at Eataly and manages the kitchens in its restaurants, is particularly passionate about La Terrazza. “I believe Italian cuisine in Türkiye stagnated in the 1980s and hasn’t moved forward. Just look at all the Italian restaurants — they offer the same dishes with no variation. Triangular parmesan on veal carpaccio, caprese salad, penne arrabbiata, or linguine pesto... We feature these tasty dishes in our other Eataly restaurant, but our goal here was to stand out. We wanted to prove that we can create amazing Italian dishes using local Turkish ingredients,” Claudio explains about Terrazza.

La Terrazza is one of the few venues where the often clichéd idea of “good ingredients straight from the producer” — a common marketing gimmick in many restaurants — is genuinely realized. This authenticity stems from Eataly’s core philosophy, which emphasizes local sourcing, supports small producers, and even trains them to achieve the desired product standard. For instance, Eataly’s bakery produces excellent bread and many top restaurants that we love for their pasta source their fresh pasta from there. They even sell over a thousand pizzas a day. When they first started, finding quality flour was a challenge, so they improved the standards by guiding and training several millers. Now, those flours are used by many chefs beyond Eataly, contributing to a broader enhancement in the quality of dishes across various restaurants.

Don’t be put off by the idea of “lesser-known or unusual Italian dishes” — it might sound intimidating, but there’s no need to worry. The Turkish palate tends to be quite conservative, which can be a challenge for chefs who like to experiment with ingredients and push boundaries. I understand Claudio’s frustration with the repetitive Italian flavors that are often served. However, from another perspective, it’s worth considering whether the widespread popularity of Italian cuisine around the world is due to its simplicity. “That’s no longer the case in Italy or elsewhere,” he points out. “In Italy, just like in Türkiye, there’s a huge variety of food. For example, in America, you can see how Italian chefs are adapting to new trends and culinary techniques without going overboard.” Claudio emphasizes that the idea of Italian cuisine being simple is outdated.

Don’t get me wrong, — there’s nothing here that’s overly avant-garde or likely to put people off. When you check out the menu, you’ll see that Claudio has moved beyond the typical Italian ingredient nationalism. Yes, everything a genuine brand-new restaurant should have is present, with cheese even coming from a small factory just 20 meters away. But Claudio’s take on these high-quality ingredients encourages us to view them from a fresh perspective. For instance, he implies, “You might be too focused on your own products and cuisine. While it’s great to appreciate them, you also need to push yourself to innovate and apply true nationalism in a broader sense,” which I believe is a very valid point.

Here’s a glimpse into the menu at La Terrazza. The focus is more on taste than presentation. Even though the dishes might seem simple at first glance, they often impress with the quality of the ingredients and the inventive techniques used. For example, the creamy red shrimp from Mersin, which has been a feature in high-end restaurants recently, is served thinly sliced with stracciatella (a creamy cheese also found inside burrata) and a drizzle of Ayvalık early-harvest extra virgin olive oil. The starters include vitello tonnato, a northern Italian classic, cooked sous vide at 54 degrees Celsius, sliced, and accompanied by a tuna sauce. Main courses feature options like green lasagna with veal ragu, lagos with sand mussels and lemon velouté, and lamb chops with mint pea puree.

Claudio Chinali offers a special, one-night-only menu once a month, where the dishes are a total surprise until you’re seated at the restaurant. With these dishes, which are completely customized for that night, you can actually observe Claudio’s style and culinary mastery more clearly. It’s also worth mentioning that Claudio, who consistently prioritizes the quality of his work over personal acclaim, was awarded a state decoration by Italy’s President, Sergio Mattarella. After visiting La Terrazza, I’m once again proud of my friend Claudio.