Black Sea flavors shine at Lokanta Hayvore

EBRU ERKE

Hayvore, famous for its Black Sea cuisine, has launched a new location in Galataport. This time, chef Hızır Keskin is joined by chef Aylin Yazıcıoğlu, and together they are likely to introduce the flavors of Black Sea cuisine to a global audience.

I was surprised to see Aylin Yazıcıoğlu rolling up her sleeves at the new Lokanta Hayvore location. It was equally surprising to find Hayvore in Galataport. We’re used to seeing Aylin in a more “fine dining” setting, while Hayvore has a more casual vibe. How did these two come together? Was Aylin going to influence Hayvore’s incredibly delicious traditional dishes? I visited the venue thinking she wouldn’t, and while I know Aylin excels at everything she does — and that we’ll enjoy her contributions —I wonder if there’s really a need to enhance something that’s already so good. That’s definitely up for discussion.

Fortunately, none of my thoughts came true. In fact, a fresh concept emerged that could redefine the brand identity for many casual eateries. One counter showcases the food, while another features elegant, mostly unfamiliar local grape wines. The entire experience revolves around these two counters. Let’s take a step back and revisit everything.

Hayvore translates to “I am here” in the Laz language. The previous restaurant of owner Hızır Keskin, Sitore in Asmalı, means “Where are you?” After leaving Sitore, his friends and frequenters would ask about his whereabouts, leading him to open a new restaurant and name it Hayvore with a touch of his signature Black Sea humor. His goal has always been to excel, sourcing the best producers and ingredients since opening in 2009. This commitment has resulted in a venue that’s much more than just a good Black Sea restaurant. Aylin became a frequenter and then a friend at their Beyoğlu location, and they often discussed and dreamed about Hayvore together.

“We aim to satisfy the desire for wine that complements the renowned recipes of Anatolian cuisine and to celebrate this legendary pairing at Lokanta Hayvore,” says Aylin. A key mission of Lokanta Hayvore is to match classic dishes with wines made from local grapes. They believe this approach will help introduce our cuisine to the world while honoring our cultural heritage. For instance, they want to explore which wines pair best with white beans (kuru fasülye) and which foods complement Kalecik Karası grapes. They aim to engage with all gastronomy stakeholders to discuss these topics and, as they put it, make this loneliness at the table a thing of the past.

For fans of the previous Hayvore like me, there’s no need to worry — savoy cabbage rolls with meat, white beans and pilaf with anchovies remain unchanged at Hayvore. These dishes are available at the counter, and they offer suggestions for pairing them with local wines. In the kitchen, a team of young chefs, trained by Aylin and led by Ayça Banu Tağcı, prepares an à la carte menu exclusively for the evening.

In fact, Lokanta Hayvore creates special menus for each day of the week and every hour. Their offerings begin with “classics of every day,” featuring beloved Hayvore dishes. This is followed by “cold starters” that adorn the appetizer tables. The menu also includes hot dishes and main courses that reinterpret traditional Anatolian recipes. They are planning to incorporate a wide variety of fish as well. While I was there, I witnessed Hızır suggesting that turbot should be prepared with butter, while Aylin proposed trying it with olive oil — those familiar with Aylin know her passion for olive oil and her expertise in using it.

When it comes to Black Sea cuisine, Aylin considers Chef Hızır the master and herself the student. She recognizes her reputation for the artisanal quality of her work and aims to delight her guests with this skill in her cakes and bread. “However, I must emphasize that the true artistry lies in sourcing high-quality ingredients in our country and preparing them correctly. In this regard, I must give credit to chef Hızır,” she says. She also expresses her admiration for the abundance of products from the Black Sea region.

They are working on our centuries-old traditional recipes, striving to perfect dishes like white beans while also introducing new surprises. For instance, the menu features both Hamsiköy’s famous rice pudding and a European-style rice pudding. Aylin describes Hamsiköy rice pudding as exceptional but also highlights the unique qualities of the European version, which has a thicker consistency and is topped with hazelnut croquant and caramel sauce. At this point, Hızır shares that grandmothers in the villages made a similar thick consistency; they may not have known about croquant, but they would caramelize sugar and add chopped hazelnuts, calling it “sütlü” (literally meaning milky). Thus, it was essential to include the European-style rice pudding on the menu and share its story.

From this viewpoint, Lokanta Hayvore seems to serve as a gateway for Black Sea cuisine to reach a global audience. They aspire to be more than just a place for good food; they envision hosting tasting events, dinners that showcase gastronomic experiences with visiting chefs, and collaborative discussions around recipes. It all sounds exciting, and we’ll be following their journey closely. Also, it’s worth mentioning that the original Hayvore remains unchanged and in its original location.