A historic feast at Villa San Michele

EBRU ERKE

Florence offers a wealth of dining options, but enjoying exceptional food at a historic venue like Villa San Michele, with its six-century legacy, turns the meal into an unforgettable culinary experience, similar to what you would find at La Loggia.

Are you ready to embark on an unforgettable dining adventure at a historic 15th-century monastery nestled on a serene, wooded hillside just below the ancient village of Fiesole, only 8 kilometers from Florence's city center? Welcome to Villa San Michele, a Belmond hotel. As you pass through its facade, inspired by Michelangelo, you will be welcomed by the lush surroundings where Leonardo da Vinci first experimented with flight, a collection of modern and classical art, stunning views of Florence and the restaurant La Loggia, which promises an extraordinary dining experience amidst this remarkable setting. But before diving into the culinary delights, let us explore the fascinating history of this magnificent building.

Villa San Michele’s, story began in the early years of the 15th century, when the benevolent Davanzati family entrusted this storied site to an order of Franciscans. Fifteenth-century Florence thrummed with merchants, bankers, artists and a deep spirituality. It was common for noble families to finance religious buildings and endeavors. So it was that the "Convento di San Michele alla Doccia" came into being, funded by one of the most distinguished and powerful Florentine dynasties, the Davanzatis.

The second half of the 16th century saw flourishing creativity in Florence, with many artists and architects involved in palatial projects for the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosimo I de’ Medici. It was in this esthetic atmosphere that La Doccia’s greatest benefactor, Messer Giovanni di Bartolomeo de’ Davanzati, began to embellish the monastery in 1596. He commissioned influential architect Santi di Tito to develop the designs. This was di Tito’s last great work, which showcased his passion for Tuscan classism, precise draughtsmanship and harmonious balance. His graceful façade and loggia were completed in the autumn of 1600.

Several artists were employed for the works, which included the church, completed in 1604. The Last Supper, painted by Nicodemo Ferrucci is one of them and still a highlight of the property today. Under the refectory, a cellar was carved out from the rocky ground, where the monks stored food. It still exists today, along with a brick bread oven which has only recently been unearthed in the hotel’s kitchen. The monastery was sold to Florentine nobleman Francesco Frosini Martinucci, who agreed to keep the church as a place of worship for the parishioners of Fiesole.

During World War II, the villa was badly damaged. In 1950, Frenchman Lucien Tessier bought it as a private residence. In 1982, Orient Express (rebranded in Belmond in 2014) purchased Villa San Michele and the surrounding land. This sparked another comprehensive renovation, this time with the cooperation of the Florence Fine Arts Authority. One of the foremost Italian landscape architects of the 20th century, Pietro Porcinai was commissioned to redesign the main gardens.

Their commitment to both preserving and showcasing modern art alongside historical works highlights their impressive and eclectic perspective. For instance, the installation Window & Ladder by Argentinian conceptual artist Leandro Erlich is the inviting curiosity in the gardens, the work consists of a ladder extending towards the sky; at its top, a suspended window frames the magnificent landscape. Perception is a key element of the artists’ work, the large-scale piece challenges and manipulates viewers’ concept of reality.

Now, let us focus on the food. It is time to take a seat at one of the eight tables arranged lengthwise beneath the vaulted ceilings, with sweeping views of the city, and allow the graceful and attentive staff to take care of you. Alessandro Cozzolino, Executive Chef of the La Loggia, was born in Caserta, 32 kilometers north of Naples, in the flat agricultural plains of Campania. He fell in love with food watching his mother and grandmother cook Sunday lunches and transformed this into a dream of becoming a chef. At 14, he enrolled at the catering and hotel management school in Cassino, near Rome, where he studied for five years.

Chef Cozzolino explains his culinary philosophy as, “My greatest desire is to transform everyday ingredients into unforgettable flavors for my guests.” The kitchen uses ingredients, particularly those sourced sustainably, infused with the balance of flavors from the chef’s childhood and global experiences, resulting in exquisite dishes. For 2024, the chef has crafted three distinct tasting menus for guests to enjoy. Each of La Loggia’s tasting menus is built with respect not just to the fine balance of ingredients, but also to the nutrients contained within — a result of Alessandro’s ongoing study of nutritional biology.

Sensualità is described as "a vegetable-focused menu that emphasizes digestibility, using exclusively Tuscan ingredients, primarily vegetable proteins, and honoring local producers." Sfumatute is a seafood menu that "explores the ongoing evolution of Florentine cuisine, reinterpreting flavors from the Medici era to the present." Legami is "a menu reflecting my personal culinary journey," according to Chef Cozzolino. If dining with others, it is advisable to order two different menus, as we did, to enhance the overall experience.

The starter of the Sfumatute menu I chose was panzanella. This traditional Tuscan dish, a salad of soaked stale bread with tomatoes, onions, and basil, dressed with olive oil and vinegar, was given a fresh twist by the chef with the addition of yellowtail amberjack. The bread was crisp, the tomatoes were turned into jelly, and sherry vinegar was used to adjust the salad's acidity. Another memorable dish was the Carnaroli risotto from the Legami menu, which was prepared with roasted capia peppers and fennel oil, delivering a powerful flavor. The menu also featured agnolotti filled with scorpion fish and burrata; cacciucco, an Italian stew with pink shrimp and cuttlefish; and the day's special, red mullet, served with carrots, galangal (a root spice similar to ginger) and mimosa sauce. Chef Alessandro Cozzolino's approach, which highlights the natural flavors of the ingredients without altering their essence, is quite impressive. Additionally, we should definitely underline the restaurant's sommelier's success in pairing.