A culinary journey through Cairo’s rich history

EBRU ERKE

“Alongside the techniques and dishes introduced by the Ottoman Empire to Egyptian cuisine, we often see French and British influences. The interaction between the cuisines of the Jewish, Coptic (the oldest inhabitants of Egypt) and Muslim communities should also be noted when describing the cuisine of this country,” notes British food writer Claudia Roden in her book “A Book of Middle Eastern Food.”

Whenever I visit the Middle East, Roden’s book is always my go-to reference. To me, it serves as a guide that explores Middle Eastern cuisine within its cultural context, offering not just recipes but also historical insights and personal anecdotes. That’s why I thoroughly enjoyed getting lost in the Egypt section before my trip to Cairo. Unlike many Western travelers, whose accounts of Cairo often feel incomplete due to concerns about hygiene, Roden tells the story from an authentic, “insider” perspective, weaving together personal memories, traditions, sociological observations and historical details.

Cairo can be accurately described as the heart of traditional Egyptian cuisine, which has a deeply rooted history. Over time, various cultures, from ancient Egypt to the Ottoman Empire, have influenced the development of this cuisine. It primarily features ingredients accessible to those living an agricultural lifestyle, particularly along the riverside. Vegetables, legumes, and grains grown in the fertile soil of the Nile Valley form the foundation of Egyptian dishes. One key characteristic that sets Egyptian cuisine apart from other Middle Eastern cuisines is its emphasis on legumes and vegetables, with meat consumption being relatively limited.

"Koshari," a quintessential street food and often regarded as Egypt’s national dish, perfectly illustrates this. It’s made from rice, lentils, pasta, chickpeas, fried onions, and a spicy tomato sauce. Since rice and pasta are not native to Egypt, it’s likely that the British introduced the dish from India. Affordable, tasty and satisfying, Koshari can be found on nearly every street corner in Cairo. However, in my opinion, the best places to try it are Abou Tarek and Koshary El Tahrir.

Street food is a vital part of daily life for workers and tradespeople. After koshari, "ful medames" and "taameya" are among the most common street foods you’ll come across. Ful medames is a staple food for many Egyptians, eaten at any time of day, from breakfast to throughout the day. It’s typically sold at small shops or mobile stalls, where people grab a quick bite on the street. However, if you’re invited to an Egyptian home for breakfast, you can be sure that ful medames will be the centerpiece of the table.

There are records indicating that this dish, also known as ful, has been a staple in Egypt since the fourth century. In Arabic, “ful” refers to fava beans, while “medames” means buried. The dish got its name because, in ancient times, fava beans were cooked by burying them in hot embers. Traditionally cooked in copper pots until soft and then mixed with tahini, garlic, cumin, and lemon, ful closely resembles the version we once encountered in Antakya. Another popular street food, taameya, is a vegan meatball made with fava beans instead of chickpeas. It’s crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, and it’s probably more accurate to describe it as a type of falafel.

Another must-try dish in Cairo is “Hamam Mahshi,” which consists of pigeon stuffed with rice, onions, nuts, diced liver, and currants (known as iç pilav), a recipe originating from Ottoman palace cuisine. Once considered a luxury for the nobility, I recommend trying hamam mahshi at Abou El Sid Restaurant. While they have several branches in Cairo, the one in Zamalek is the most authentic, set in a 1930s Cairo house with ethnic decor. By the way, “mahshi” means stuffed. Similar to our own tradition, different vegetables are often stuffed with a rice filling, creating a variety of versions.

When discussing Egyptian culinary culture, it’s impossible not to mention their famous dessert, Um Ali. The name “Um Ali” translates to “Ali’s mother” and is said to have been given to the dessert by the 13th-century Egyptian Sultan Izz al-Din Aybak in honor of his wife after she gave birth to their son, Ali. Another, somewhat dubious story (in my opinion) is that Westerners claim the dessert was created by Mrs. O’Malley, an Irish cook who worked in the Egyptian palace. Over time, her pudding for the royal family transformed into "Um Ali." Unlike the doughy, syrupy desserts typical of the Middle East, Um Ali is more like a “bread pudding,” made with dough, pastry cream, and plenty of dried fruits.

Just like in our country, coffee and tea are essential parts of daily life in Egypt. Traditional coffeehouses, known as "ahwa," are not only spots for enjoying coffee and tea but also hubs for literary and political discussions. Egyptians are said to have adopted their tea-drinking habits under British influence. They brew coffee from beans similar to ours but roasted darker, and their tea is served with mint and sugar after it is brewed. One place where you can truly experience this tradition is El-Fishawi coffeehouse, which has been operating since the 1700s and was a favorite of renowned poet Naguib Mahfouz, who was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1988.

Must-see museums

- Grand Egyptian Museum: The museum was inaugurated with an elaborate and grand ceremony. However, many of the artifacts from the old museum have not yet been transferred here, so it’s a good idea to check their website before visiting. The museum is located in a stunning building, and while part of it is open to the public, you’ll have an even more enjoyable experience if you attend the interactive shows.

- National Museum of Egyptian Civilization: In my view, this museum is still far more impressive than the new one, thanks to its incredible collection, which spans from Tutankhamun’s treasures to lesser-known artifacts from Ancient Egypt.

- Coptic Museum: This museum showcases everything from manuscripts to everyday items that reflect the oldest Coptic culture, both before and after the advent of Christianity.

- Cairo Mummy Museum: This museum was the most surprising for me. You should definitely make it a point to visit. In this modern museum, you’ll find real mummies of some of the most famous Egyptian figures, with some even displaying their facial features.

- Museum of Islamic Art: Home to one of the largest collections of Islamic art in the world, this museum also features rare Koran manuscripts, ceramics, and exceptional glass art from the Ottoman, Mamluk and Abbasid periods.

Must-do

The pyramids in Giza, located just a short distance from Cairo’s city center, should definitely be at the top of your list, especially if Luxor isn’t on your itinerary. If you’re not in good condition, consider renting a carriage at a reasonable price to ride between the pyramids. If you’re not claustrophobic, purchase an entry ticket that allows you to go inside the pyramids. Be sure to ask your carriage driver to take you to the most picturesque spots around the pyramids. To wrap up your tour in a way that will soothe your soul, sit at Ladurée. If you can, book a table on the terrace beforehand. Sipping coffee with the pyramids in view will surely be a memory you’ll cherish forever.

Your Cairo experience wouldn’t be complete without wandering through the Khan el-Khalili bazaar. Browse the spice shops, wander in and out of stores selling handmade silver, and don’t hesitate to haggle for a better price on something you like. Papyrus paper makes a great souvenir or gift. The jewelry at the mobile stalls is flashy and inexpensive. When you take a break for coffee on a stool, don’t turn down the henna artist who approaches you. It’s part of the experience of traveling in Egypt. Choose a design and watch with admiration as it’s quickly applied to your hand with henna in seconds.

Accommodation

Staying at one of the hotels along the Nile will elevate your Cairo experience even further. Nearly all major international hotel chains have branches here. Based on my own criteria, particularly the balance between price and service, I chose the Four Seasons Hotel Cairo at Nile Plaza. With Egyptian cotton bedding, all the modern amenities, and the unique experience of waking up to views of the Nile, the hotel offers a memorable stay. While it has several dining options, I highly recommend Zitouni restaurant, where you can enjoy traditional Egyptian cuisine at its finest. Here, you can savor dishes like koshari, molokhia and ful in their most delicious form. If you prefer, you can even arrange for a private table and enjoy these dishes on your room’s terrace overlooking the Nile. For a bit of added romance, consider booking a sunset ride on a traditional wooden fishing boat called a “felucca.”