A beach menu beyond expectations

EBRU ERKE

In front of me are three distinct types of grilled and sliced meat, each differing significantly in appearance and flavor. We sample each piece and discuss aspects like muscle structure, fat content and texture. One by one, the chef asks everyone at the table to name their favorite, then provides an explanation: The first type is from a large breed that was fed solely on fresh herbs and grass. It has a lean texture but a soft muscle structure, with a noticeable herbal freshness. The second type comes from a special breed that was grain-fed, resulting in fattier meat. The third type is from animals primarily fed corn, with some rice and barley, leading to a pronounced marbled appearance in the muscle tissue.

No, these conversations are not happening in some fancy steakhouse or Michelin-starred restaurant on the other side of the world. We are at Momo, a beach restaurant in Çeşme, with chef Mert Seran. Momo’s menu is way beyond what you would expect from a beach spot. It is not just the chef and the kitchen team making this place special; Burak Beşer, the owner of the Momo brand, is a visionary who really supports his chefs. His places are always packed, and even if he just sold burgers and lahmacun, the beach would still be buzzing with customers. Let me tell you clearly, if someone who is only focused on making money were in his shoes, he would take the easy route and not pay much attention to the chef. That is why Momo is not just another beach restaurant—it has become a brand.

I will dive into the menu details soon, but first, let me tell you about Mert. He has nothing to do with the players of today’s glitzy gastronomy scene. Because his character is not suitable for this. He is a chef who focuses on his craft and competes only with himself, not with others. There might be a few reasons he has not been in the spotlight much. He led the kitchen at Ulus 29 from 2009 to 2017 and was part of the opening team at Fenix. Ulus 29 is a well-known spot famous for its vibe, view and food that feels the pulse of social life. Being involved with such prominent brands is an amazing experience, but it can sometimes overshadow an individual’s personal brilliance.

After leaving Ulus 29, we started to recognize Mert’s work and unique cooking style more. He is now a menu consultant for several notable places, including the Michelin-recommended Yeniköy Azur and Nişantaşı Beymen Brasserie, among others. He also oversees the kitchens at Momo’s locations in Istanbul Bebeköy, Bodrum and Çeşme.

When I chatted with Mert about his culinary style, he described it like this: “It has evolved a lot over time. As I gained more experience and experimented with different concepts, my style has changed too. Back then, we followed trends and looked up to pioneers like Ferran and El Bulli, studying their techniques and making more complex dishes. Now, I prefer to cook with simplicity and focus on letting high-quality ingredients shine. Instead of creating elaborate dishes with multiple sauces and purees as I did previously, I now aim for a more refined approach where a few exceptional ingredients come together to make fresh, vibrant flavors.

His approach to using ingredients, sometimes inspired by his experiences in South America, where he lived for two years, and sometimes by Spain and Italy, really sets his cooking apart. He does not confine himself to a specific style or framework in the kitchen. For me, what truly drives his cooking is his focus on the ingredients. You cannot miss the impact of Mert’s passion for quality ingredients in his dishes. For instance, the meat I mentioned earlier is a case in point. He even imports anchovies from Spain, which seemed unusual to me at first. I asked why he would bring fish from Spain when we have anchovies here. Mert explained, “It is not that simple, Ebru. I spent three years trying to work with our local anchovies, but they did not turn out right. The Spanish anchovies are fattier and larger because of the different sea conditions and breed, while ours become overly acidic and their texture changes in vinegar.”

Momo’s menu features a variety of dishes, including raw seafood like red shrimp carpaccio and tuna tartare, salads, pizzas, and, of course, burgers. However, they limit the number of burgers they make each day to encourage guests to explore other options and fully enjoy their dining experience. Some people might ask about the prices, but that is one of the things I really appreciate about them. They do not focus on making a profit and do not apply standard profit margins to dishes made with high-quality ingredients. So, for example, you can enjoy their top-notch meats at prices similar to those at a good steakhouse, and their quality often exceeds that of the steakhouse fare. If their goal was to make headlines, Türkiye would be talking about them for just one anchovy or even a single lahmacun.