A taste of Japan
EBRU ERKE
Osaka, known as the hub of street food; the elegant Kyoto, steeped in tradition; Tokyo, buzzing with energy and life... come along as we take a brief journey through Japan.
"Don't be shy, feel free to slurp loudly," says Nick Yeah, who leads the street food tour. "There's no embarrassment; in fact, the louder you slurp, the more acceptable it is. Bring the bowl close to your mouth, grab the noodles with your chopsticks, and slurp them along with the broth." Nick, who relocated to Osaka from Seattle 17 years ago, now organizes food tours for international visitors. He explains that while Osaka's food and drink scene has always been great, it has gained even more popularity since the pandemic, all while walking beneath the neon lights glowing like a rainbow.
Whenever I visit a foreign city, I always wonder which Turkish city it resembles. The answer that comes to mind is Gaziantep. Yes, Osaka, known as the food capital of Japan, has only one equivalent in Türkiye—Gaziantep. While they have takoyaki and kushikatsu, our Gaziantep boasts beyran, katmer and many other specialties. However, the comparison shouldn't be limited to food alone. The real reason I draw this parallel is that both cities' food culture and energy are deeply rooted in their streets. It's a place where people truly love to eat.
Many cities in Southeast Asia and the Far East are renowned for their street food. However, what sets Osaka apart, much like Gaziantep, is that each dish has its own master, and these masters influence the city's food culture. Take takoyaki, for instance. Everyone here has their own favorite takoyaki maker. After trying a few, mine is definitely Ichiban. They pour a special liquid batter into small round molds and cook it with a piece of octopus. It's a delicate process, so cooking it yourself at a restaurant can be risky. What I love about Ichiban's takoyaki is that it's crispy on the outside while remaining soft and gooey inside.
The food here has its own stories as well. Take takoyaki, for instance. It's a hearty and affordable dish made with simple, inexpensive ingredients, created during a time of famine while the city was being rebuilt after World War II. Another dish from that same era, which remains popular today, is okonomiyaki, or Japanese pancakes. It only contains three basic ingredients — flour, water and cabbage — and then you can add whatever you have available, like mushrooms or seafood. In fact, "okonomi" translates to "according to taste."
Kushikatsu, found all over Japan, originated in Osaka. It was created in a small eatery named Daruma during the post-war era as an easy, tasty and satisfying meal option for mine and factory workers who could eat it with their hands. The dish is made by skewering whatever ingredients are on hand, dipping them in breadcrumbs and deep-frying them.
In Osaka, there's a traditional saying: People in the nearby city of Kyoto spend their money on luxurious silk kimonos, while in Osaka, it's all about spending on food. Among chefs, it's often said: "If you make it as a chef in Osaka, you can succeed anywhere." Indeed, the city's culinary tradition is upheld through its street food. However, there are also excellent restaurants here. For example, London has 85 Michelin-starred restaurants, Paris has 101 and the Nara region, where Osaka is situated, boasts 185.
Kyoto was another destination on my trip to Japan. This city is the most iconic and traditional in the country. Kyoto, which has preserved its ancient customs, is one of the 17 UNESCO World Heritage sites. Each year, it draws more and more tourists with its charming alleyways, ancient temples, beautiful gardens, breathtaking nature and handmade craft shops.
This significant city, steeped in traditional Japanese culture due to its over a thousand years of history as Japan's capital, remained the country's capital for more than a millennium. Its abundance of historical landmarks was so impressive that, reportedly, this is what made Americans give up on bombing it.
Kyoto boasts over 1,650 temples, 400 Shinto shrines, 800 additional shrines, a castle, three palaces, numerous city parks, and enchanting gardens. The oldest of these is the Shimogamo Shrine, which is 1,337 years old and was originally constructed in 678 by Tenmu, Japan's first emperor. One of the top tourist destinations today is Fushimi Inari Taisha, known as the "Mother of Temples," famous for its thousands of red Torii gates and narrow pathways.
The buildings in the city recognized as UNESCO World Heritage are as follows: Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Kinkaku-ji Temple, Ginkaku-ji Temple, Ryoan-ji Temple, Tenryu-ji Temple, To-ji Temple, Saiho-ji Temple, Nijo-jo Castle, Nishi-Hongan-ji Temple, Ninna-ji Temple, Shimogamo-jinja Shrine, Enryaku-ji Temple, Byodo-İN Temple, Daigo-ji Temple, Kamigamo-jinja Shrine, Kozan-ji Temple and Ujigami-jinja Shrine.
My final destination in Japan is Tokyo, which I took thanks to the direct flights launched by ANA, Japan's national flag carrier, from Türkiye. This city has an undeniable energy, constantly alive and never quiet. It's vibrant, dynamic and always moving forward. As you walk through its streets, you can easily get lost; at times, it feels like a vast metropolis, and other times, like a small village. There is a harmonious contrast in this city! To truly understand it, you need to experience its atmosphere. This is Tokyo, the heart of the most exciting places to get lost.
Every neighborhood in Tokyo offers something different. At times, it's peaceful, while at other moments, it's a whirlwind of activity. This is a city where some lose themselves in neon-lit arcades, while others find tranquility in the calm of temple tea ceremonies. Tokyo is a one-of-a-kind city where minimalist styles mix with the bold, eccentric fashions of the 'Harajuku' movement, where streets with smoking bans stand in contrast to smoky restaurants and expansive parks sit side by side with electronics stores wedged between towering skyscrapers.
In this city, contrasts are everywhere. As we observe the non-stop shopping in 24-hour markets and the rush of people at Shibuya Crossing, where it's possible to see five hundred people cross at once, the city's vibrant energy starts to pulse through us. Let's take a look at three neighborhoods that capture Tokyo's dynamic spirit: Harajuku, known for its connection to Gwen Stefani, Omotesando, where luxury designers converge and Shimokitazawa, the up-and-coming hotspot.
Harajuku is the heart of the kawaii (sweetness and cuteness) culture in Japan. It's filled with young people in their early 20s, often dressed like characters from Japanese anime. The vibrant plaid skirts, pink dresses, oversized bows, fruit-patterned bags, heeled boots, eye-enhancing lenses, and duck lips sold on Takeshita Street are sure to catch your eye. Gyoza, a popular type of dumpling filled with meat or vegetables, is a common dish in Japan, served either fried or boiled at nearly every Japanese restaurant. For a quick dumpling break, head to Harajuku Gyozaro, a local favorite for lunch.
Omotesando is more of a 'window shopping' district, designed to captivate your sense. It's a place full of unique stores where you can uncover the latest fashion trends, all infused with the artistic flair of designers. Unlike Ginza, known for its luxury brand stores, Omotesando's charm lies in the artistic details of its buildings and shops. The minimalist, cool and laid-back styles of the young people strolling the streets are perfectly complemented by their standout accessories. Be sure not to miss Omotesando's Comme des Garçons store and the iconic Prada building.
The final neighborhood that captures Tokyo's youthful vibe is Shimokitazawa. In this quiet area, filled with vintage and second-hand stores, antique shops, and boutiques showcasing minimal, bohemian Japanese style, it sometimes feels like you've stepped out of Japan. Shimokitazawa, favored by hip locals, is home to some of the best third-wave coffee shops and Japanese-style pancake spots. Bear Pond Espresso is considered the coolest coffee shop in the area, known for its signature thick Angel Stain Espresso, which is made only when the owner is present and served until 1 p.m. Tucked away in the neighborhood's backstreets, Shiro-Hige's Cream Puff Factory is a must-visit for anyone young at heart. Here, you can enjoy homemade pasta followed by a Totoro-shaped cream puff, inspired by the beloved character from Hayao Miyazaki's 1988 film "My Neighbor Totoro."
As the day progresses, the atmosphere in Tokyo shifts. Many locals spend their nights, often until the early hours, in arcades that resemble our coffeehouses, filled with cigarette smoke and free from children. These vibrant, noisy and captivating spots, especially in the Akihabara and Shinjuku districts, make it easy to lose track of time. The city never quiets down at night. After dinner, you can explore the famous Golden Gai district in Shinjuku. The narrow alleys are home to bars, each with its own unique vibe, typically small enough to hold only 10 people. Walking through these bars, you'll quickly realize how much individual expression is central to Tokyo's nightlife. Most people end their nights alone or in pairs. In the bustling, colorful streets of Tokyo, this sense of individuality is contagious. In a city that continuously fascinates us with its unique character, we witness how a culture adapts to the youth, change and energy of the times. Tokyo is not like Europe, America, or the Far East; it is unlike anywhere else.
By the way, one of the first things that comes to mind when thinking about Japan is small hotel rooms. My advice is to choose a hotel a bit outside the city, where you can find spacious rooms and a stunning garden. In this regard, I highly recommend The Prince Hotel in Tokyo and Kyoto.
