A few days on the spice island
EBRU ERKE
Zanzibar is gearing up to be a top-notch worldwide tourist spot with all this cash pouring in and big-name hotels setting up shop. But, on the flip side, the surge in visitors and the push for mass tourism might mess with the island's authentic vibe.
Zanzibar, an idyllic island located off the coast of Tanzania in eastern Africa, is poised for significant tourism development. My suggestion to those eager to experience its beauty is to act swiftly: Discover its underwater wonders, embark on a sunset safari aboard traditional fishing dhows and embrace positivity with the mantra "hakuna matata."
Meysun Büyüksaraç suggests that if you are up for a lot of sea swimming, head to Nungwi or Kendwa in the north where the tide is lower. "But do not think you are stuck up there; there are great places to stay all over the island," she says. She loves the resorts down south. To really soak up Zanzibar's vibe, she advises spending some time in the capital, Stone Town. It is a cool mix of African, Arab and Indian cultures. Paje Beach is a favorite spot for kite surfers. Even if you are not into it, it is worth checking out, she recommends. "Spice tours are a blast, and so are the boat trips like 'Safari Blue' for scuba or snorkeling. You can also spot red Colobus monkeys in Jozani Forest. And if you are keen, we can set you up for a swim with giant turtles or dolphins too," she adds.
Meysun has run SkyPalm, a tourism outfit in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, for 11 years now. She landed there due to her husband's job. When my documentary shoot in Tanzania wrapped up and I spontaneously extended my stay, she came through big time, sorting out ticket bookings and travel info. If you are planning any tourism stuff in Tanzania, I cannot stress enough how handy it is to have someone like Meysun on your side. Sharing the language and culture makes everything a whole lot smoother.
This is my third trip to Zanzibar. When I asked Meysun about any recent changes, she shared some cool stuff. She mentioned that Tanzanian President Samia Suluhu Hassan said Zanzibar has seen 250 new projects pop up in the past two years, worth a whopping $3.73 billion and creating 15,000 jobs. Most of these projects are in tourism, covering not just hotels but also villas and standalone houses. Real estate investments are huge here.
What is the deal here? Zanzibar is gearing up to be a top-notch worldwide tourist spot with all this cash pouring in and big-name hotels setting up shop. But, on the flip side, the surge in visitors and the push for mass tourism might mess with the island's authentic vibe. So, if you are keen on experiencing Zanzibar's natural charm and good vibes, my tip is to swing by in the next couple of years.
Picking the right place to stay on islands like this is key. I like spots that let me get into local activities the traditional way and serve up clean, tasty grub. That is why I did not even hesitate to head to Kilindi in Kendwa, up north, which is hands down the best spot for swimming. Kilindi is part of Elewana, a hotel brand that is big all over Africa.
Elewana Kilindi boasts just 15 stunning white villas with a supernatural design. When I arrived, the first thing I did was to join a cooking class with the chef to whip up some key Zanzibari dishes. Like I mentioned earlier, the kitchen is where you really feel the cultural vibes. They have got spicy curry dishes with an Indian twist, but they are tweaked to suit our taste buds since they skip fenugreek like they do in India. The shish kebabs and pilau rice are packed with flavors from Arab culture – super spicy, just like you would expect on an island famous for spices. Speaking of spices, they grow all sorts here, but Pemba Island, just off the coast of Zanzibar, holds the title for the world's largest clove producer.
Elewana Kilindi has quite an interesting backstory. The pavilions, blending Scandinavian simplicity with the bold architectural flavors of the Middle East, were initially designed for Benny Andersson, a member of the legendary 1970s pop group ABBA. For years, Andersson used it as a year-round summer retreat for himself and his close pals. Eventually, the family attempted to turn it into a hotel but found it was not their thing. They wisely struck a deal with Elewana, one of Africa's top-notch luxury hotel chains.
Each pavilion offers plenty of space, its own separate bathroom and a private pool. The joy of spending the entire day barefoot, clad only in your swimsuit, gazing at the Indian Ocean and traditional fishing dhows from your personal spot is a unique experience you will not find elsewhere. I guess this is what quiet luxury is all about. Amidst this simple perfection, remember you are in a natural setting and take the time to explore the creatures around you, like the "bush baby" monkeys found only in the island's northern part. These small, non-aggressive monkeys may quietly keep you company throughout your vacation, either by watching you through the leaves or eyeing the bread on your table, but they will not cause any harm. You will also be serenaded by a meditative symphony of bird species you have never seen before.
If you are up for it, you can also try out pro or amateur diving to explore underwater stuff. One thing I absolutely love doing here is the "Sunset Safari." Why? It is like having a super long day in Africa, like 48 hours instead of just 24. There are other ways to do this, but I definitely advise enjoying this sunset with a dhow, a traditional fishing boat, rather than a catamaran and a motorized boat. Kilindi can arrange it for you. As the sun sets, the sky gets all red, the air feels chilly and it is so quiet you can only hear the sail flapping and the boat splashing.
And at that moment the rowing fisherman starts shouting at the top of his lungs "Jambo jambo buena, caribati sudi sana, vabeni...hakuna matata, hakuna matata... " (Hello foreigner, welcome to this land... everything is fine here, no problem). Stop and just listen. Trust me, it will do your soul good, this African therapy...
Food suggestions for Stone Town
Cape Town Fish Market
This spot offers the finest seafood in town, with a range of ocean delights from sashimi to fish & chips. Feast on crab croquettes, tuna carpaccio, hand-roll sushi and grilled lobster with cream, all featured stars on the menu. Plus, they offer a quality selection of South African wines to complement your meal.
Beach House Restaurant
This restaurant, managed by Park Hyatt, one of the most elegant hotels on the island, is your best bet if you are all about top-notch service. Octopus with peri peri sauce, fried crispy calamari, kerevir sevice, Zanzibar style shrimp and curry are some of the dishes on the menu.
Emerson Hotel Rooftop
If you are after a local taste, this spot is got you covered. Their menu is packed with dishes influenced by Arab and Indian flavors. Plus, in the evenings, you can groove to live Swahili music for that authentic vibe.
